Surviving Prohibition: Boston's Underground Bar Scene & Craft Cocktail Culture

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On January 17, 1920, the United States entered a period of prohibition with the enactment of the 18th Amendment, an era that left an indelible mark on Boston's drinking culture. While many bars faced closure, some, like J.J. Foley's Cafe, found inventive ways to survive. This article explores the impact of prohibition on Boston's bars, the rise of speakeasies, and the enduring craft cocktail culture that emerged in its wake.

J.J. Foley's Cafe, a longstanding Boston watering hole, managed to weather the storm of prohibition, thanks to its founder, Jeremiah Foley. In a creative twist, the bar temporarily transformed into a shoe store, showcasing the resilience and adaptability of Boston's drinking establishments during this challenging time.

Prohibition gave rise to an underground drinking scene, with an estimated 4,000 speakeasies popping up in the Boston area alone. The term "scofflaw," meaning someone who flouts the law, gained popularity during this era. These secret bars ranged from clandestine home gatherings to more sophisticated tea rooms and lively establishments with music and dancing.

Enforcing prohibition proved challenging, leading to its eventual repeal in December 1933. The end of prohibition marked a massive celebration in Boston, signaling the failure of a social experiment that had temporarily stifled the growth of the craft cocktail culture.

The craft cocktail culture experienced a robust revival in the 1980s and 1990s, only to face new challenges, including the recent COVID-19 pandemic. Bars like Offsuit, a speakeasy born during the pandemic, adapted to the changing landscape, emphasizing the importance of connection and the role of alcohol in social interactions.

While the craft cocktail culture thrives, there are modern challenges, such as the high cost of liquor licenses in Boston. Bar Manager Ryan Polhemus expresses concern about the limited accessibility for aspiring talents without substantial financial backing. Despite these challenges, he remains optimistic about the industry's ability to stay creative and accessible.

J.J. Foley's Cafe remains a family-run institution, passing down recipes and stories from generation to generation. On the anniversary of the 18th amendment, they offer timeless advice: "The key to work is showing up." The legacy of bars like J.J. Foley's serves as a testament to the resilience and enduring spirit of Boston's drinking culture.

As Boston reflects on the 104th anniversary of prohibition, the city's bars continue to tell stories of survival, adaptation, and the vibrant culture that emerged from the challenges of the past. The legacy of prohibition lives on in the craft cocktail culture, connecting generations and ensuring that the spirit of innovation remains an integral part of Boston's bar scene.