Some of the Triangle's best sushi is located inside a gas station

Some of the Triangle's best sushi is found in one of the unlikeliest places — a gas station in Apex.

Why it matters: Chef Bird Owattragool has built a loyal following at Akami Sushi, an intimate sushi bar located in the back of a Han-Dee Hugo's.

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What to expect: Behind what used to be a Subway deli counter, Owattragool expertly cuts a rotating cast of fresh fish like tuna, bluefin, amberjack and red snapper.

• His team of chefs makes rolls that dance across flavor profiles, from classics like dragon and spider rolls to adventurous in-house creations.
• For those looking for a more stripped-down experience, there is excellently cut sashimi and a monthly omakase night where he serves patrons 13 dishes of his choice for $135.

On a regular night , you can also ask for the chef's "secret menu," where Akami will prepare an array of off-menu items that each chef comes up with depending on the fresh ingredients available.

• In our case, it was a roll featuring cuts of bluefin akami with a touch of smokiness and another with soft, buttery textured bluefin toro.

Between the lines: You might expect the setting to be a turn-off for a chef working with the detail Owattragool does, but he's fully embraced the location and how it fascinates diners.

• The restaurant's staff all wears shirts with the moniker locals have bestowed Akami: Gas Station Sushi.

Location: 1561 E. Williams St., Apex.

Hours: Open Monday through Saturday from 11:30am-2:30pm and 5-9pm.

Go deeper: Read the Indy Week's profile of Owattragool

The toro sushi roll, top, and Osaka roll, bottom, from Akami's secret chef menu. Photo: Zachery Eanes/Axios