Gene’s brings barbecue, frozen Bushwackers, and pure fun to East Lake on July 23

Expect trays full of smoked meats, seafood sandwiches, and frozen Bushwackers when Gene’s opens July 23 in the former Salaryman space beside Poor Hendrix in East Lake.

For owner Avery Cottrell, the opening of Gene’s sees the curtain come down on his popular Viet-Cajun barbecue pop-up as it transforms into the neighborhood restaurant of his dreams.

Regulars to Cottrell’s pop-ups at Kimball House, Bogg’s Social and Supply, and former employer Poor Hendrix need no introduction to Gene’s.

But for the uninitiated, Gene’s is pure fun with damn good food.

The Vibe

Words like “eclectic,” “hodgepodge,” and “mishmash” could all describe what’s happening within the four walls at Gene’s, starting with the decor.

Cottrell’s charming and quirky personality manifests in the design. It’s a visual smorgasbord that includes flea market finds and collectibles like punk rock flyers and vintage toys. Equally as eclectic, the music on the free jukebox offers everything from Madonna and Cyndi Lauper to The Damned and Jerry “Swamp Dogg” Williams.

A cartoon likeness of Cottrell’s chubby cat serves as the restaurant’s namesake and brand inspiration. His grinning orange face appears as a maze on the kids’ menu.

“My cat was recognized by Bon Appetit ,” Cottrell said of the 35-pound fleshy feline living his best life. “So, I guess the world really does know about the big fat orange cat and this restaurant now.”

If the smiling cartoon cat on the front door doesn’t provide enough of a clue that you’re about to have fun at Gene’s, the 22-foot fiery red alligator in the dining room should do the trick. It’s strapped to the ceiling with multi-colored nylon rope typically used for securing items on a boat or the back of a pickup. But this crimson-hued beast causes chuckles rather than alarm.

It’s hard not to get excited when listening to Cottrell talk about Gene’s. He’s down to earth and a little self-deprecating. His cheeky smile and infectious laugh almost make you forget you’re speaking with a chef who really knows his stuff. Cottrell isn’t afraid to flex his flavor muscles.

The Food

At Gene’s, Cottrell combines his love for smoking meats with classic dishes from seafood shacks he grew up around in Louisiana. In past conversations with Cottrell, he has described the menu at Gene’s as Viet-Cajun food meets the Flora-Bama at your favorite barbecue joint.

Gene’s barbecue tray, for example, comes with smoked meats like boudin, pulled pork, sticky ribs caramelized in fish sauce, brisket, and chili-brined chicken skewers.

Sides of Vietnamese-style smashed cucumbers, beef tallow refried beans made with brisket scraps, and Serrano pepper coleslaw accompany the barbecue. Potato salad comes dressed in green goddess sauce and waffle fries are dusted with dehydrated Tabasco mash. Pork, shrimp, and Thai basil comprise the house-made sausage.

Cottrell cooks all of the meats at Gene’s in a hot pink Primitive Pit smoker over recycled oak from North Atlanta Firewood.

On the day Cottrell spoke to Rough Draft Atlanta about the opening of Gene’s, he was preparing to smoke 250 pounds of pulled pork for fellow Louisiana native Nick Melvin to use in burritos at his Kirkwood market and restaurant, Poco Loco .

Beyond barbecue at Gene’s, look for seafood sandwiches and plates, like a herby shrimp roll or a smoked fish collar. Appetizers range from boudin egg rolls and smoked Gulf fish dip to the occasional batch of Buffalo-style frog legs and lime-chili blue crab claws. Cottrell marinates the crab claws in lemon juice, chili peppers, and fresh herbs, based on his grandmother’s recipe.

Dessert includes Cottrell’s sought-after Biscoff banana pudding, along with soft serve ice cream and pies from his wife and pastry chef, Elizabeth Hurstell.

The Drinks

If you’re thirsty, look for dive bar cocktails, frozen concoctions, and Jell-O shots created by veteran Atlanta barman Miles Macquarrie. Cottrell partnered with Macquarrie and Matt Christensen of Kimball House as well as John Ward of Victory Brands restaurant group to open Gene’s.

In keeping with the seafood shack/barbecue joint ambiance at Gene’s, Macquerrie batched cocktails like Manhattans, martinis, and margaritas to put on draft. A custom-wrapped Jagermeister machine pours Decatur-based Murrell’s Row amaro. Three other machines serve frozen Bushwackers, hurricanes, and a nonalcoholic riff on the Dreamsicle called the Genesicle, mixing coconut milk with orange and vanilla. It can come boozy by request.

In addition to cocktails, expect a selection of local beers, a play on twisted tea created exclusively for Gene’s by Inner Voice Brewing in Decatur, and orange and natural wines by the glass.

“A little class with the trash,” said Cottrell of the drinks at Gene’s, unapologetically adding that it’s also a “Coors Light bar. Sorry.”

People place food and drink orders at the counter before grabbing a seat and waiting for their number to be called. Servers will roam the dining room taking additional drink orders. It’s full service at the bar.

Gene’s serves food right up until closing, but barbecue orders stop at 9 p.m. That’s when Cottrell and his crew need to start smoking meats again for the next day.

“Everybody definitely has an opinion about barbecue in Atlanta, but at the end of the day, we’re just out here having fun and feeding people,” Cottrell said.

2371 Hosea L Williams Drive, East Lake in Atlanta. Open Tuesday – Thursday, 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 12 a.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

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