The verdict on 3 new Atlanta restaurants: Auburn Angel, Pendolino, and Dos Burros

Photograph by Martha Williams

Auburn Angel
Longtime Atlanta restaurateur Asa Fain has transformed the former location of Auburn Avenue Rib Shack, an historic cinder-block corner building in the shadow of the Downtown Connector, into an urbane oasis of fine food and drink called Auburn Angel. The studs-out renovation infuses the industrial interior with cosmopolitan flourishes, like banquettes in olive-green faux alligator leather and a triptych of artful sconces. Some original features remain, including the Rib Shack barbecue pit. A relatively small dining room is extended by a capacious outdoor patio.

For Auburn Angel, Fain teamed with chef Robbie Pacheco, formerly of Cardamom Hill, and pastry chef Pamela Moxley, a James Beard semifinalist for her work at Miller Union. The everchanging menu, mostly small plates, displays the global influences of “Chef Robbie,” with Lowcountry classics like oxtails dressed up by Hakurei turnips, and a piquant steak tartare topped with caviar and paired with yuca chips. His plating evinces a flair for maximalism: A charred Little Gem Salad was delivered with a bouffant of emerald lettuce, punctuated by zesty pickled kumquats, cherry tomatoes, and generous fans of watermelon radish, layered over a thick swirl of vivid beetroot puree. Moxley scores on dessert with a rhubarb tart a la mode­—an orange-infused vanilla, topped with almond brittle. It makes you almost believe in angels. Sweet Auburn —Rachel Garbus

Pendolino
After years of working for high-profile restaurateurs, notably Tom Colicchio and Ford Fry, chef Kevin Maxey finally has a place to call his own with Pendolino , an Italian-inspired bistro in Chastain Market. Upon opening on a recent evening, late sunlight streamed in as leather booths and oak and marble tables filled quickly with well-heeled patrons; the after-work crowd nabbed stools at the long, elegant bar, and a pretty influencer scrolled through her cell from a cozy window nook. Across the room, chef Maxey stepped out of the kitchen to zhuzh up flowers, stack glasses at the servers’ station, and check in with the host—fussing over his new “baby” at every turn.

The bustling restaurant, named after an olive tree variety, feels swanky but not stuffy, with high ceilings, Murano glass chandeliers, and luxurious fabrics in soft greens, deep reds, and warm ivory that suit the mix of light and dark woods and trattoria-friendly furnishings. The menu offers a few red-sauce Italian-American standbys, some creative takes on pasta favorites, plus wood-fired pizzette—a must for the kids. While Italian-influenced, the food is also rooted in the South, using seasonal ingredients in antipasti, salads, vegetables, roasted meats, and seafood. The signature cocktails are pricey, but potent and playful. The wine list leans Italian but offers picks from other regions worldwide. A well-appointed patio is a splendid spot to imbibe and be seen. Sandy Springs —Vené Franco

Dos Burros
In the words of our esteemed restaurant critic, Christiane Lauterbach, “Check out those two guys—they’re always rocking it.” Indeed, Skip Engelbrecht and Nhan Le’s knack for creating fun and casual menus offering winning, affordable food has helped transform the former Lady Ha space into a boozy tacos-and-more hideaway along the BeltLine’s Eastside Trail. Enter from the ground floor of the Ford Factory Lofts (at Ponce City Market), and you have three options: The doors on the left lead to the eat-in dining room; the doors on the right lead to a hangout space, including tables, bar, and a tiny lounge; or you can head upstairs to the patio, with plenty of tables, a few barstools, and a counter for ordering. The patio sits just below the BeltLine, so it’s perfect for gazing up at the passersby or taking in the skyline or puffy clouds on a breezy day. Tacos, burritos, ceviche, margaritas, beers (including Hopstix brews­­—Hopstix owner Andy Tan is also a co-owner of the restaurant), rum- and tequila-focused cocktails, and a loose vibe prevail. Poncey-Highland —Vené Franco

This article appears in our July 2024 issue.

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