New book dives into the history of Malört

Last week Chicago's CH Distilleries offered free Malört "rescue kits" to credentialed journalists covering the DNC, and Gov. JB Pritzker toured local bars drinking the stuff with "The Daily Show" host Jordan Klepper.

Why it matters: The gimmicks reflect just how synonymous this joyfully bitter spirit has become with local culture, embodying our immigrant influences, gritty tavern landscape and sense of humor all in one revolting shot.

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• But the full history of this unlikely cult favorite has never been told, until now.

What's happening: Longtime Chicago Tribune writer Josh Noel has penned "Malort: The Redemption of a Revered and Reviled Spirit " out on Sept. 3.

The big picture: Created by Swedish immigrant Carl Jeppson in the 1920s, Malört was acquired in 1935 by a Chicago lawyer who then left ownership of the almost dead brand to his secretary.

• But around 2008, two young guys fascinated with the brand, resurrected it and made it so popular it's now sold on tap in Champaign-Urbana.

A tiny bottle of Malört included in the "Malört rescue kits" CH Distillery sent to journalists covering the DNC. Photo: Monica Eng/Axios

What they're saying: "The book is really about the people and relationships through the years that allowed Malört to become what it is today," Noel tells Axios.

The intrigue: In the book, Noel explains why Malört was made in Florida for several years and why the lawyer tried to market it as an upscale liquor before learning its fans were "working class, blue collar, heavily male drinkers in their 50s, 60s and 70s."

• He also explains how every batch of Malört tasted pretty different over the decades until CH Distilleries bought it and standardized it.

What's next: Noel launches his book tomorrow at Exile in Bookville at 7pm and speaks again at Revolution Brewing on Sept. 4 where tickets holders can try Malört cocktails and a new Malört barrel-aged stout.