Denver's Asian chefs talk culture, criticism and what defines authenticity

Some of the Denver's top Asian chefs recently gathered to explore the question: "How Asian is Asian enough?"

Why it matters: The panel discussion aimed to create a safe space for local chefs and address challenges Asian-owned businesses face, including racism and doubts about their cultural representation.

Zoom in: The conversation stemmed from frustrations felt by Ni Nguyen, star chef and co-owner of the hit Vietnamese spot Sắp Sửa , after his restaurant was criticized for not offering chopsticks.

• Other chefs on the panel included Nguyen's spouse and co-owner, Anna Nguyen; Tommy Lee of Hop Alley and Uncle ; Penelope Wong of Yuan Wonton ; and Maddie Dunhoff of Taeko-san Takeout .

What they're saying: Dunhoff, who is part Japanese, said customers often ask questions about her background and the nature of her business that feel "borderline inappropriate" and even "hurtful."

• "I really love that people want to learn about the cuisine and who I am — but I think there are ways that we can be more respectful of how we inquire about that," Dunhoff said.

When it comes to what defines a restaurant's identity, chefs say it's more about the personal experiences they bring to the table than strict adherence to tradition.

• "Authenticity to me is your own lived experience," Ni Nguyen said. "When guests come in to eat, you're experiencing authenticity through the eyes of the chef."
• Wong added that Yuan Wonton's menu, which puts a creative spin on traditional Chinese dishes, is authentic because it's packed with "flavor that I grew up with."

The intrigue: Lee said some of the "hardest to please" critics of modern Asian restaurants are Asian customers who tend to hold more traditional expectations.

• "When we have aunties and uncles in the restaurant, it's triggering — you're immediately full of anxiety" because they can be quick to label modern Asian cuisine as "too Americanized," Wong noted.

The big picture: Lee encourages diners to approach restaurants with an open mind.

• "You should do a bit of homework and see what you're actually getting into. And when you dine in, ideally you can just see a restaurant for what it is — not necessarily have these notions — and then figure out how that fits into your dining playbook," he said.