What Is Houndstooth? How to Use the Timeless Pattern in Your Home

Learn how to use this bold and classic fabric in your home.

With the rise of cottage core and the Nancy Meyers aesthetic , gingham and plaid fabrics have once again become a staple pattern in many homes. Curtains, chairs, and tablecloths are just a few of the ways people are incorporating these patterns into their spaces. Checkered plaid is a classic, but there's a similar pattern that's just as recognizable, but not as well known: Houndstooth.

Deborah Young is a clinical assistant professor at Arizona State University Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising.

While gingham and plaid are warm and cozy, houndstooth is chic, timeless, and classy. Deborah Young, a clinical assistant professor at Arizona State University Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, describes houndstooth fabric as durable and strong, but still sophisticated. "It suggests history and tradition," Young says. "It's got a life of its own."

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What Is Houndstooth Fabric?

The origins of houndstooth aren't certain, but the first known evidence of the fabric dates back to 360 A.D. in Europe. Young says the pattern was made popular when it was used for British hunt club clothing. The fabric is traditionally made from wool, so it makes for comfortable, warm, and athletic clothing for hunting.

According to Young, houndstooth fabric gained popularity in the high-end fashion world around 20 years ago. "It went from something very British and very conservative to really trendy and really sexy," she says. Designers used the fabric to make dresses, suits, skirts, and warm trench coats. Today, the houndstooth pattern is still used frequently in fashion and home decor, although it is often printed onto other fabrics instead of woven into its own fabric. "It's enjoyed its own longevity," Young says. "It has its own personality, its own prestige."

Houndstooth is a twill fabric that has a distinct diagonal pattern. But, houndstooth is a broken twill, so while there is a noticeable diagonal pattern in the weave, there are also jagged edges in the pattern. These jagged edges are said to resemble the jagged edge of a hound dog's tooth, hence the pattern's name. Similarly, smaller versions of the pattern are often called micro-houndstooth or puppy's tooth.

Young says color plays an integral role in the structure of houndstooth fabric. She says the fabric is yarn-dyed , meaning it is made with four light-colored yarns and four darker yarns. "If it isn't two colors, the pattern disappears, which I think is kind of magical," she says.

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How to Use Houndstooth Fabric in Your Home

Because of its durability and timelessness, houndstooth is a popular choice for home decor. Young recommends using houndstooth fabric for upholstery . Consider upholstering the seats of your dining room chairs or an ottoman with houndstooth fabric for a classy and sophisticated look, or for throw pillows on your couch or in your bedroom.

While many prefer a larger pattern for aesthetic reasons, Young urges people to consider how much traffic the item is getting. For high-traffic items like couches and armchairs, Young recommends using a micro-houndstooth fabric with a smaller weave because it will last longer. "The smaller the houndstooth, the more durability it would have," she says.

Young also recommends considering whether the fabric is printed with the pattern or if it is a woven houndstooth fabric. Because a print sits on top of the fabric and is not woven into it, printed fabrics aren't nearly as durable. She also notes that if you're working with a woven, houndstooth fabric, it can be fairly heavy—which is why she doesn't recommend true houndstooth fabric for window treatments .

However you choose to incorporate the houndstooth pattern in your home, you can dress it up or down (or vary the color and size of the pattern) to match your personal design style .

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