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  • The Bergen Record

    Fine dining, fries and Fogo — oh my!

    By Kara VanDooijeweert, NorthJersey.com,

    22 hours ago
    https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=3nk913_0uUZ1eSC00

    Happy Thursday, North Jersey!

    This past week brought me a hard-earned podium at a mountainous Poconos 10K, 100K followers on @northjerseyeats and my second most-read news article for The Record.

    AKA, it was a week of wins.

    I can't say, however, that I was surprised by the first two — I've been hitting the track hard, and deeply considering the desires of my hungry social media audience. But, the article? That got me.

    For the past year, I've been working hard to bring you the latest and greatest on our local food scene; tantalizing omakases, cross-cultural pubs and heartbreaking closings of landmark restaurant institutions.

    And, the piece that took the crown? "The top ten Dairy Queen Blizzards, ranked."

    (Second only, of course, to "Who is Grimace? And why does he have his own McDonald's shake?").

    In other words: in a world of wine pairings, robot fried chicken, farm-to-table dinners and celebrity chef galas, North Jersey is most infatuated by watery fast food desserts.

    Yum.

    If you're in the sizable minority that prefers actual food, though, don't worry — this article has got you covered. Here are the five best (non-melted ice cream) things I ate this week.

    New restaurant openings

    Before I get to those eats, though, let's talk about new local restaurant openings.

    This week, there was one.

    • Austin Cho Kitchen, the latest barbecue concept by pitmaster Robert Austin Cho, soft-opened in Hackensack. For now, the spot is boasting menu favorites from the chef's previous restaurant (Kimchi Smoke), including globally-inspired brisket sandwiches, pulled pork fries, saucy wings and more.

    The best things I ate this week

    And now back to those decadent bites.

    These are the best things I ate this week.

    Eel Rice with Foie Gras, Sushi by Sea

    It's no secret that I love Sushi by Sea. I've written about it, posted about it and secured it a spot on USA Today's top 47 restaurants in America list. From chef Cris's 17 courses of fish to owner Jay's hospitality, there's nothing about the hidden gem omakase spot that I don't like.

    In fact, I'd probably even call it my favorite restaurant in New Jersey.

    This week, though, the team raised my already-high opinion to the stratosphere with their newly introduced steamed eel rice course.

    Part of 2024's summer menu, the dish featured eel-infused sushi rice (warmed so that the eel melted between the grains), a rich slab of foie gras and a perfectly cooked quail egg. Though it was presented on a soup spoon — and thus only lasted for about two bites — the few seconds it was in my mouth were euphoric.

    Go: Ridgefield, NJ (address disclosed upon reservation); reserve at: sushibysea.com.

    Berry Mascarpone Cast-Iron Pancake, Ladyfingers

    As a kid, my Dutch grandmother used to cook me 10-inch, fluffy hotcakes in a 1950s black skillet. PAM spray existed, but she didn't use it; opting instead to let a full-fat slab of butter melt under the sizzling masterpiece. By the time the pancake was done, it had a hot, pillowy center surrounded by a rich, crispy butter crust.

    For a decade, I thought those textures and flavors were a thing of the past — a nostalgic set of tastes that had been fading since my little Grandmother sold her countryside ranch.

    That is, however, until I discovered the Berry Mascarpone Pancake at Ladyfingers.

    Cooked in a cast-iron pan (just like the one grandma used), the golden griddle cake was every bit as crisp-around-the-edges yet airy-in-the-middle as the one from my youth. The dousing of sweet cream cheese — and dusting of lemon salt — made it just as decadent, and the fresh strawberry sauce reminded me of the garden she had in her backyard.

    Go: 1109 Broad St., Bloomfield; 973-343-5110, ladyfingers.com.

    Pork Belly, Fogo de Chão

    Nothing too fancy here; just a hefty slab of pork belly cooked to perfection at Jersey's best chain restaurant (apart from, maybe, The Capital Grille).

    At Fogo de Chão, the MO is all about carving house-roasted meats right at guests' tables. From top sirloin to filet mignon — with picanha, tomahawk and wagyu in between — waiters are constantly roaming with steaks on sticks; offering diners luxurious cuts of protein alongside hot sides and blow-torched desserts.

    Lean meats can't compete, though, with a fatty, salty cut of pork belly.

    And, if someone says they like the ribeye better (or the chicken, or the lamb)? They're lying.

    Go: 400 Commons Way Suite 279, Bridgewater; 908-280-1777, fogodechao.com.

    Scallion Pancake Breakfast Sandwich; Butler and the Board

    Breakfast sandwiches taste better when loaded with house-smoked bacon, hand-rolled pork sausage or chef-crafted ham, as they are at Butler and the Board; a high-end charcuterie shop in Montclair.

    During my premiere visit to the spot last week, chef Jeff Butler (former charcuterie instructor at the French Culinary Institute) impressed me with his various homemade pâtés and house-cured meats, which he creatively repurposed into upscale morning meals. Between slabs of mortadella and samplings of pickled bok choy, I tried a BEC, PREC and more.

    My favorite, though, was the egg and cheese on a scallion pancake.

    Featuring Butler's handmade jambon blanc (a delicate variety of white ham popular in France) and fontina on the most mouthwatering, crispy shell, it was as salty, umami and textured as I like my 8 a.m. eats.

    Go: 103 Forest St., Montclair; butlerandtheboard.com.

    Hot Honey Pimento Cheese Fries, 1950 Originals

    When I lived in Florida, pimento cheese was a household name. Not that it was comparable to something like cream cheese or butter, but I'd say it was equally as common as spinach and artichoke dip.

    In North Jersey, however, the spicy spread is harder to find.

    Luckily, though, the chefs at 1950 Originals in Westwood serve it on the daily.

    Hand-mixed and scooped over hot, golden-brown beef tallow fries (with a drizzle of hot honey), the rendition is as delicious as any I've tried in the 727 — and presented much more creatively.

    Go: 325 Broadway, Westwood; 201-275-0622, 1950originals.com.

    Hungry for more?

    Want more on this week's latest food news? Check out some of my (and others') best articles below.

    Until next week, North Jersey — please go eat somewhere better than McDonald's.

    (Or, if you don't; at least DM me to confirm that the Kit Kat Banana McFlurry is as terrible as it sounds).

    Kara VanDooijeweert is a food writer for NorthJersey.com and The Record. If you can't find her in Jersey's best restaurants, she's probably off running a race course in the mountains. Catch her on Instagram: @karanicolev & @northjerseyeats.

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