The ultimate Boston-area pizza guide

For five years, I have traversed the Boston area in search of pizzerias that replicate the magic of a New York slice.

Who am I to question our institutions? Well, I'm a fatty from New Jersey with nearly three decades of pizza-eating under my belt.

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• I've identified a collection of pizzerias I would defend — at least as the best in the region.

What I did: Ate dozens of slices of pepperoni and the occasional Sicilian to compare the sauces and textures. I wrote it all down to tell you how they stack up.

Don't let the glob of mozzarella fool you. The Sicilian slice from Armando's was solid. Photo: Steph Solis/Axios

Armando's Pizza & Subs

The first time I visited Armando's in Cambridge, the owner was juggling back-to-back phone calls with to-go orders from regulars stopping in five minutes after opening.

• I quickly learned why.

What I ordered: A slice of pepperoni and a Sicilian slice.

• What I got: The closest thing to a New York slice in the Boston area — a slightly greasy thin crust that held together a proper ratio of well-seasoned sauce, cheese and pepperoni.
• Also, a solid Sicilian slice — a crunchy, but airy crust with more sauce and a generous heap of cheese.

Price: $3.75 for the pepperoni slice; $4.50 for Sicilian. Cash only.

The bottom line: The best of the best.

A slice of pepperoni (AKA two slices) from Florina. Photo: Steph Solis/Axios

Florina Pizzeria & Paninoteca

Depending on the day , the time and the way the wind blows, Florina on Beacon Hill serves either the best pizza in Boston or a greasy, flimsy mess.

What I ordered: A massive pepperoni slice and a Sicilian.

• What I got: A thin crust that held its own, but the pepperoni could have used some extra sauce.
• Also, a margherita pizza Sicilian slice (they didn't have regular cheese). No sauce, which was disappointing, but the crust was A+.

Price: $4.25 for the pepperoni; $4.75 for the Sicilian.

The bottom line: I've had excellent pizza from Florina on other visits, but you can't be the best around Boston when your pies are inconsistent.

A Sicilian slice from Galleria Umberto. Photo: Steph Solis/Axios

Galleria Umberto

Galleria Umberto doesn't fall into the New York-style pizza category, but the North End pizzeria's taste and price make it worth trying.

What I ordered: A Sicilian slice (that's the only pizza they sell).

• What I got: A thin crust for Sicilian, but it held a generous helping of charred cheese and tomato sauce.

Price: $2.25. Cash only.

The bottom line: Galleria Umberto's slices are not only one of the best in the city, but the best (and perhaps only) ones at this price point.

• My only gripe is the hours are limited: 10:45am-2:30pm Monday through Saturday.

Santarpio's pepperoni pizza looked angry and tasted sad. Photo: Steph Solis/Axios

Santarpio's Pizza

Santarpio's is an East Boston institution and a staple for many, including former Boston Mayor Marty Walsh.

• The lamb skewers are mouth-watering. The pizza, not so much.

What I ordered: An Italian cheese and pepperoni pie and some lamb.

• What I got: Some of the driest, most burnt pizza ever. I can't remember the last time eating the crust felt like work. I ate it for journalism.
• At first, I thought Santarpio's forgot the pepperoni. Turns out it was hiding beneath the cheese, maybe to make up for the lack of sauce.

Caveat: I did pick up the pie 20 minutes late, but I've had two-day-old slices from elsewhere look and taste better.

• I've also had Santarpio's slices loaded with toppings — mushrooms, pepper, pepperoni — that look and taste decent enough.
• Still, I'd choose the lamb skewers over a slice here any day.

Price: $16.50 for a pepperoni pie.

Regina Pizzeria's pepperoni pie looks amazing, but left a little to be desired. Photo: Steph Solis/Axios

Regina Pizzeria

Locals insist the Regina Pizzeria spots outside of the North End give the chain a bad name, so I visited the original last month.

What I ordered: A pepperoni pizza pie.

• What I got: A solid, but overhyped pie. The crust was chewy, and the portions of cheese and pepperoni were generous.
• But the sauce lacked flavor. The grease was excessive.
• Adding oregano helped (after I let some grease slide off).

Price: $15.25 for a pepperoni pie.

Editor's note: This guide will be updated with new entries.