New CT steakhouse with patented dry aging process, adjacent tavern, labor of love for restaurateur

Of the hundreds of restaurants Stephen Goglia has opened across the country, his newest ones, a steakhouse and neighboring tavern in Connecticut, are his truest labors of love.

Goglia adores the “stunning” historic brick building circa 1806 with the 40-foot high ceilings. He loves imagining the people and stories that passed through its doors when locks, hinges and doorknobs were its business more than 100 years ago.

But most of all he loves that it’s home, in Branford, where Goglia has lived for 29 years and raised a family.

“I’ve done a lot of properties and this one is very passionate,” he said. “For a town I love, to be able to provide something so substantial…”

Saltbrick Prime Steakhouse and Lockworks Tavern open Friday, June 28, under the management of his eldest son and partner Joseph Goglia, 36.

Joseph Goglia also lives in Branford with his family.

The steakhouse will offer dry aged steak of all cuts: sirloin, filet mignon, porterhouse, and more.

The eatery will also feature fresh seafood, pork chops, chicken Wellington, and signature popovers.

They will also carry coveted Japanese wagyu.

“It’s pretty dizzying what we have here,” Goglia said, of the steakhouse.

Goglia, whose company also owns the 414-seat Prime Steakhouse at Foxwoods , said the restaurant will be “approachable, not stuffy,” and the music will a bit louder than at most steakhouses.

The tavern next door in the rectangular brick building will be “playful” and serve unique appetizers and meals, with a “blue plate special” every day.

Goglia, 63, has been working in the restaurant business since he was 15 and living on the Jersey shore. He started by parking cars and became fascinated with the kitchen when he would sneak into the restaurant to get a bite to eat.

Goglia, who grew up in a big Italian/Irish family where life was centered on big family meals and entertainment, got the restaurant bug and never looked back.

“There’s something about hospitality. Being able to provide for others,” he said.

He attended Culinary Institute of America , then earned a degree in hospitality at Florida International University.

He would go on to work at at the most prestigious culinary and hospitality companies in the world, taking him all over the country.

Still involved in many big time restaurant endeavors today, his company owns Prime Steakhouse, Sprinkletown Donuts, Caputo Trattoria, an Italian eatery, all three at Foxwoods.

He moved to Branford from San Diego in 1995. He spent much of it working out of an office in NYC where he also had an apartment, in addition to a Branford residence.

“I have a lot of pride in our town,” he said

The historic building has been home to many businesses through the years, including restaurants.

Goglia said, “ironically,” the location of his new businesses is where he had his first restaurant experience when he moved to Branford. It was a seafood eatery, “Coral Reef.”

The new businesses are located at 1212 Main St. in Lockworks Square Plaza.

When he heard the restaurant, Donavan’s Reef closed at the location, his company jumped at the opportunity.

“I think the property is stunning,” he said.

The new steakhouse with four chandeliers, big windows, a tree in the middle and 115 seats, serves dry aged steaks, “the cornerstone” of the company, Goglia said.

He said the company holds a patent on a dry aging process used in Branford and at Foxwoods that involves a refrigeration and pink Himalayan salt process. The steak is aged for 30 to 60 days and keeps the flavor inside the meat, he said. Normally when someone notices, “that steak is so juicy,” the liquid you see on plate is actually the flavor, he said. The dry aging condenses the flavor, he said.

He said the steakhouse has a spectacular bar ensconced in Himalayan salt bricks,

The tavern has an “eclectic menu” and an open open kitchen.

“It’s a little playful. We’ll have more of a vibe,” he said.

Pieces of history from the building are displayed in shadow boxes, including artifacts such as brochures (copies), ornate doorknobs, locks, and hinges. Some pieces were generously lent by Branford Historical Society, Goglia said.

He said the building has been home to many businesses: a tire store, bicycle shop and many restaurants.

“We went deep and gutted the building,” Goglia said. The found planking as part of the original floor and made a distressed American flag.

To show love of Branford, they display a wood carving of the town seal and other symbols of the community.

Goglia said he’s been more involved in this project up close than any other and it represents his best knowledge after 48 years in the business.

“There’s something wholesome about this project…It’s been really wonderful,” he said. “I’m as energized and as excited about our industry as I was back then (In the beginning).”

Goglia said he has a “stellar” team and has brought his longtime executive/partner, Alex Cabera and his family to Branford as well.

He and the team have coined the term, “unvarnished,” meaning they are 100 percent honest with one another without “sugar coating,” but also nice.

They even have a house wine called, “Unvarnished.”

Goglia said he will be spending time at the new restaurant in the beginning because it’s like having a baby on your hands.

“I’m passionate, involved. I want the baby to find it’s feet,” he said.