Bainbridge bakery Sweet Dahlia comes to Bremerton's Callow Ave

There's a new splash of pink on Bremerton's Callow Avenue.

The festive color is courtesy of Sweet Dahlia Baking 's new retail counter, which opened in April. On Saturdays — currently the only day the counter is open — Sweet Dahlia co-owner and chef Chris Wadkins loads display cases, transforms his retro truck into a makeshift seating area, and sells an array of fresh breakfast offerings including handmade doughnuts and sandwiches.

"It's real food, it's good food," said Stacey Wadkins, Chris's wife and Sweet Dahlia's co-owner. "We make everything from scratch."

You might have visited Sweet Dahlia's other retail location on Bainbridge — or bought one of their famous apple fritters on the ferry. But the Sweet Dahlia brand precedes both the retail location and the ferry contract.

Former islander Kate Berry, who died in 2021, founded Sweet Dahlia in 2011. She worked out of the bakery's current Bainbridge kitchen, selling creative pastries at local farmers' markets and cafes.

When Berry put Sweet Dahlia up for sale in 2016, Chris Wadkins, then a caterer at Bainbridge Senior Living, took notice.

"I was kind of always on the lookout," he said. "You know, everybody who works for somebody else is on the lookout for something else."

"He definitely has that entrepreneurial spirit," Stacey added.

A long time coming, and a long time to get it right

The Wadkinses bought Sweet Dahlia and expanded it, opening the Bainbridge kitchen for retail and picking up a wholesale contract with Washington State Ferries.

As part of that contract, Stacey and Chris acquired a commercial kitchen on Callow Ave, next door to the storage unit that would eventually become their retail counter . They had plans to renovate and open the counter as early as 2020, but were thwarted by the COVID-19 pandemic.

Despite the setback, Sweet Dahlia itself was well equipped to survive the pandemic. In 2017, the Wadkinses figured takeout pub food would be a hit with patrons of the winery, brewery, and distillery that all share the Coppertop Loop business park with Sweet Dahlia. Their initial idea gradually morphed into a three-times-a-week Sweet Dahlia dinner club , with Chris and his co-chefs cooking up a vast array of creative and occasionally elegant meals.

The club's text format meant that by the time the pandemic hit, Stacey and Chris were familiar with the online to-go model necessary for pandemic survival.

"We didn't miss a lick," Chris said. "While everyone else was like, 'Oh, no, COVID.'"

The couple has brought their dinner club — a hit with everyone from young singles to retirees — to Bremerton. Those interested in participating in the club can text "Callow counter" to 877-757-2207 for the weekly menu, and pick up their meals at the Callow Ave location.

Stacey's recommendation: Chris's popular handpies, which he sometimes stuffs with chicken tikka or chili colorado.

Callow Ave: on the up and up

Stacey and Chris believe Sweet Dahlia's presence on Callow Ave is in line with the revitalization of the street, which belongs to Bremerton's historic Charleston District.

"This area is trying really hard to step out of its old reputation," Stacey said. "And we're happy to be a part of that."

Jim Cline, the president of the Charleston Business District, said "big box retailers" sent Callow, once a vital hub, into disrepair. A lack of new businesses then cemented the street's struggles.

But recent efforts to revitalize the area and make it "Bremerton's second downtown," have been fruitful, Cline said. He said Callow Ave has seen an uptick in businesses that provide "places for people to meet," a crucial aspect of building community.

Also coming to Callow: Poulsbo's Slippery Pig moving brewing operations to Bremerton

Cline, who admires Sweet Dahlia's walk-up storefront and Chris's innovative truck seating, hopes that Chris and Stacey will one day open the counter full time.

Notably, Sweet Dahlia is not the only Kitsap business that has recently expanded to Callow Ave. Dave Lambert, who owns Poulsbo's Slippery Pig Brewery, is opening a second Slippery Pig location on the historic street.

Taking it slow

The Wadkinses deliberately eased into their new venture, minimizing both the counter's hours and its public promotion.

"We're not all about making a big boom," Chris said. "We didn't put the big 'grand opening' sign out, let the media know and get the mayor down here."

"We didn't do any advertising," said Stacey, who is in charge of the business side of Sweet Dahlia. "We didn't do any of that. All through word of mouth. And quite frankly, that organic growth is good."

A few months into the Bremerton counter's "organic growth," both Stacey and Chris are feeling good about their experiment. And Chris in particular is making plans for what comes next.

"We're thinking in the winter, maybe we make it so you can come in here, too," he said, pointing around the back of the counter space. "If we turn this and make it so you can actually sit at the counter, we'll put windows in there so you can see outside."

Chris also hopes to begin serving lunch, and — to Jim Cline's delight — to expand the counter's hours.

"This just had to start off as the counter on Saturday," Chris said. "That's just how it had to start. But that's the start. That's not the end."

This article originally appeared on Kitsap Sun: Bainbridge bakery Sweet Dahlia comes to Bremerton's Callow Ave