At Bridges Nepali Cuisine, in Northside, I put my ignorance of Nepali cuisine on full display. A patient woman stands behind the counter as I ply her with questions about every dish on the menu. "What is this made of?" "Is it traditional?" "How is it cooked?" "How do you pronounce it?" I sound like an idiot, and I should have done more research before I arrived. Because while I know that Nepal is located between India and China and draws on both cuisines for inspiration, I have no idea how.
The woman suggests I start with the momo dumplings, but I've had them before and know they're fantastic. I want to try something different. As the look on her face transitions from friendly to concerned, I settle on the woh, a pancake made with ground, marinated lentils and stuffed with minced chicken (other proteins are available) and a side of pork chili.
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It arrives topped with a "Twilight Zone" spiral of light red sauce tomato sauce spiked with garlic and ginger. And while its magic doesn't hit me right away, my memory of it lingers. The earthy lentils are marinated in ginger and garlic, adding flavors that are warming and familiar. The seasoned chicken is minced to the point where it melts into the batter, and the edges are crispy and delicate, while the center is delightfully mushy. The side of chili is rustic and slightly Cajun with its strong pork flavor. After a few bites, I pour it on top of the pancake, smashing everything together into a sweet and savory mess.
I look forward to going back to Bridges soon. Next time I'll know exactly what to order.
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Bridges Nepali Cuisine has three locations in Greater Cincinnati. 4165 Hamilton Ave., Northside, 513-374-9354; 6304 Vine St., Elmwood, 513-417-7704; and 11 W. Seventh St., Covington, 513-417-7704. bridgesnepalicuisine.com.
Highly Recommended is a weekly spotlight on some of food writer Keith Pandolfi's favorite finds as he eats his way across Greater Cincinnati. Find more of his recent food writing here.
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