Tripi in Ohio City is a Streamlined Italian Deli Doing Things Right

Like newly opened Affettati in Little Italy, Tripi in Ohio City opts for restraint and efficiency over creative abandon. After operating places like Lox, Stock and Brisket and the Rice Shop, owner Anthony Zappola wanted to create a place that could deliver high-quality foods in a swift, streamlined manner.

“This is the concept I’ve been trying to open for 10 years,” says Zappola. “Really, really simple – probably the most simple menu of all my concepts.”

Named for the chef’s grandparents’ home town in Sicily, Tripi Italian Specialties is a lean, fully transparent operation that focuses on a few key food items that take little time to prepare. The concise menu is built around meatballs, spicy Italian sausage and breaded chicken cutlets, which arrive in pasta or sandwich form. Zappola also has square-cut pizza slices at the ready for just $3.

Like any great Italian deli, Tripi bakes its own rolls. It’s the kind of detail that transforms a good sandwich into an extraordinary one – a fact not lost on the owner.

“That’s the difference maker,” Zappola says. “You’re going to be getting a chicken parm sandwich 20 minutes after the bread comes out of the oven.”

Juicy chicken cutlets ($12) are loaded into airy, sesame-dotted rolls, topped with marinara and provolone, and wrapped tightly into deli paper so that all the elements coalesce. The undisputed VIP on the menu is the Papa Tony ($14), a pitch-perfect Italian sub stacked with salami, soppressata, capicola, provolone and tomato.

On a recent visit I was thrilled to discover newer items like the Italian beef sandwich ($14), a less-messy version of the Chicago original. Mine wasn’t “baptized” in the savory cooking broth, but it did come with a side of au jus after I requested it. A sweet, mild and crunchy housemade giardiniera is on hand to improve this and other sandwiches. Zappola is now baking focaccia, which he uses for the Tuscan turkey ($12), a light and sunny pairing of sliced turkey, smoked mozzarella, pesto mayo and arugula.

The shop also stocks a few grab-and-go salads, desserts and housemade rosemary potato chips, an absolute steal at $2 per bag. A small retail section is stocked with items like dried pastas, canned imported tomatoes, olive oils, jarred olives, hot and sweet peppers, giardiniera and tapenade.

Tripi is quick-serve all the way, but there is an attached dining room that is attractive, roomy and bright.

Tripi Italian Specialties
3928 Lorain Ave., Cleveland
216-417-5511
tripicleveland.com

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