Adejoké Bakare’s Vision for Chishuru in London Lands Michelin Stardom

Two months ago, chef Adejoké Bakare made history by becoming the first Black woman in the United Kingdom to be awarded a Michelin star for her restaurant Chishuru.

The modern West African concept in London’s Fitzrovia district earned its star earlier this year in February, garnering widespread attention and acclaim. “It’s wonderful to have been recognized in this way,” says Bakare, the self-taught chef and visionary behind the award-winning restaurant.

Chishuru is changing the game with Chef Bakare’s brilliant fusion of West African flavors complemented by the restaurant’s laid-back atmosphere. “Starred food no longer means linen tablecloths, armies of stiff-backed waiters, and a man in a suit with a golden grapes badge trying to upsell you on the wine,” she jests.

Through her tremendous achievement, Bakare is sparking conversations about the evolving expectations of Michelin-starred restaurants while championing the representation and recognition of Afrocentric cuisines in London’s food scene.

The Gem of Fitzrovia

Growing up in Nigeria, Bakare’s love of food and journey with cooking began early on. “I learned from my grandmother from a young age, and—as the oldest child—was often asked to cook for my siblings.”

She always maintained a deep connection to her culture and the flavors she grew up with. However, it wasn’t until she moved to the U.K. after university, nearly 25 years ago, that she truly began to pursue her passion for cooking professionally.

“I liked to cook for friends at dinner parties, and I ran one or two supper clubs. But it was only when I won a competition to get a three-month restaurant pop-up in Brixton Village that things became more serious,” she recalls.

While running the pop-up in 2020, Chef Bakare and her team received a glowing review from a prominent food critic, solidifying the pop-up as a permanent restaurant. With its growing popularity, Chishuru decided to expand in 2022 but struggled with finding a new place.

“We were flatly turned down by some commercial landlords—they just weren’t interested in having a West African restaurant in their premises,” says Bakare. “Even the site we’re in now was a battle to get.”

Nevertheless, in September 2023, the acclaimed restaurant was finally able to open the doors at its location in the heart of Fitzrovia and receive a Michelin star five months later.

Subverting Expectations

Despite being awarded a star, Chef Bakare wants to make it very clear that Chishuru is not a fine dining establishment, contrary to popular belief.

“Michelin recognized years ago that one-star restaurants can serve great food in an informal environment, but a few customers haven’t caught up and have some outdated ideas about what a Michelin star means.”

“I always wanted Chishuru to be homely—it’s the opposite of the kind of sterile fine-dining restaurant you see in movies like ‘The Menu,’” she remarks jokingly.

“It’s a small place, and the tables aren’t far apart; many customers come to have a good time and get loud, and we always have good music playing.”

Chishuru is rooted in passion, authenticity, and a down-to-earth atmosphere that makes guests feel right at home. The lively and vibrant energy buzzing through the dining room is only quieted by one thing—the arrival of food at the table.

Chishuru‘s Fusion of Flavor

Chishuru, in Hausa, means “to eat quietly” and is indicative of the silence that falls over the dining room when the food is so good it requires your undivided attention.

The restaurant’s two tasting menus are a creative blend of West African flavors that strike a balance between traditional dishes and modern techniques. “Each dish stays on for about two months; it depends on how popular it is and when we get bored,” Bakare explains.

“A current favorite on the menu is pepper soup: a broth made from meat and fish stocks, flavored with uziza, which is a West African pepper that packs a punch…In its current version, the broth has pickled oyster mushroom, compressed beetroot, swede, radish, apple, and sliced uziza leaf.”

Chishuru also offers an extensive wine list to pair with their expertly crafted tasting menus as well as a small array of cocktails that showcase West African ingredients. The inspired dishes combined with the restaurant’s dynamic atmosphere ensure a truly unforgettable experience.

Blazing a Trail

“When I first started Chishuru, I was cooking on my own, but now I work with a team with a range of different backgrounds, and we all influence each other,” says Bakare thoughtfully. The Nigerian chef reflects on her journey to Michelin stardom and how she hopes to inspire people.

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“The hospitality industry gives out plenty of awards to itself, but the one that chefs care about more than any other is Michelin, so it was a thrill to win a star. I hope I can encourage others to put themselves forward.”

Her well-deserved milestone not only marks a personal triumph but also serves as a beacon of inspiration to other aspiring chefs of color striving to elevate their cuisines. “Representation matters,” Bakare emphasizes. “You can’t be what you can’t see.”

For more information about Chishuru, including the menus and how to book reservations, you can visit their website .

To keep up with Adejoké Bakare and her journey as a Michelin-starred chef, you can follow Chishuru’s Instagram for updates.

This story originally appeared in Cuisine Noir Magazine