American Elm replicates its elevated dining experience with brunch

American Elm's brunch menu returns this summer, bringing the panache of its American fare to breakfast favorites like waffles and egg plates, plus one unexpected fish dish.

Dig in: The West Highland restaurant's menu debuted last month, featuring nine food items, seven cocktails and two spirit-free drinks.

Best bites: The trout and creamy smoked cheddar grits, buttered to perfection.

• The fish is crispy and savory, laid on a bed of thick asparagus. It's a dish that, to me at least, didn't scream brunch; it sounded like a dinner plate, but fit perfectly for a morning meal.

For those with a sweet tooth (hey, that's me !) I couldn't resist the waffle.

• The lightly toasted waffle came topped with whipped cream, berries and powdered sugar. Did I feel like a 6-year-old ordering it? Yes. Was it worth it? Absolutely.

What to try: The restaurant's espresso martini, which uses a Colorado spirit, Woody Creek Roaring Fork Vodka, and Atost coffee liqueur.

Our thought bubble: American Elm has transformed a cliché brunch staple with its grapefruit mimosa, a deceptively simple but full-bodied and refreshing cocktail that I'm ready to proclaim as the best mimosa in Denver.