This Utah Region Remains Untamed and Uncrowded

Having skied the Big and Little Cottonwoods, Park City, and Deer Valley annually for the last 20 years, I eventually developed an insatiable curiosity about the looming and lesser-known mountains north of Salt Lake, centered around the boom and bust old west town of nearby Ogden. The Ogden Valley lies amongst some of the most breathtaking mountains, richest agricultural lands, and robust recreational opportunities in the country at the confluence of the Ogden and Weber rivers, west of the Wasatch and east of the Great Salt Lake just north of Salt Lake City. Ogden is a historic railroad town and was only the third incorporated city west of the Missouri River in 1851, once a rowdy frontier town that even Al Capone said was too lawless.

It carried that reputation through the years, and like neighboring Park City, only an hour from Ogden, whose initial fortunes and reputation came from mining, Ogden flourished in its malevolence despite its tea-totaling neighbors in Salt Lake City, just 35 minutes away by modern automobile. Some locals still say Ogden is where Salt Lake goes to party. In the times that I’ve been there this century, I’ve enjoyed strolling historic 25th Street and taking in some of the classic bars and modern eateries but found the debauchery has almost entirely subsided. In its place were artist studios, museums, and trendy restaurants. And that’s ok, because there’s a lot of skiing nearby, and I have to get up early.

According to a study done by MarketWatch Guides Team, Ogden was recently ranked as “the most affordable city in the Western U.S.” -- an accolade that couldn’t come easily when you’re 30ish minutes from two of the top-ranked ski resorts in the country, ranking 18th in the nation for its cost of living and transportation infrastructure, among other factors. Skiing at Snowbasin and Powder Mountain are like the classic eras of skiing. Parking is more manageable, crowds are smaller and friendlier, the vibes are good, and the snow is beyond legit.

Former mayor of Ogden, Mike Caldwell, was well-known for his bicycle commuting when the area blossomed into an outdoor-industry Mecca. I was there for an outdoor gear event one summer before an Outdoor Retailer show but had yet to add this winter wonderland wishlist to my ski bum resume. I first had the opportunity to ski Powder Mountain and Snowbasin the first week of February 2020, and the experience stayed etched upon my brain and those fond memories of deep pow, zero crowds, breweries and distilleries, and haute cuisine helped me survive the pandemic without a doubt. Having watched the growth of Park City over the last two decades, the fact that Ogden hasn’t completely blown up is a mystery to the entire industry. I’m no local expert, just a fan. And while things may be changing, the Wild West era hasn’t ended yet. There’s still time to experience Utah wild and untamed. It’s worth adding to the bucket list if you do not sell everything and move there. Like I always say, it’s never too late to have a happy childhood.

Where to Stay

Staying in Ogden is a very different yet awesome experience. There’s an element of cowboy meets hippie carpenter meets craft brewer meets global powder hound, crossed with old-time locals and former ski racers. It's classic but different from any other mountain town I’ve spent time in. It’s inexplicable.

In Ogden, you’ll find all of the usual big box hotels, most of which you can still stay at during peak season for under $200 per night, along with lots of Airbnbs, B&Bs, and some condos, but no mega resorts at the ski areas themselves, which is a refreshing change and might seem a bit unusual if you’re accustomed to the more developed resorts.

One lodging option in the area truly stands out: The Compass Rose Lodge in Huntsville, jumping off point to the local Nordic Valley ski area and right on the way to Powder Mountain. It’s also adjacent to Pineview Reservoir, a prime summer recreation spot for the entire region. It’s walking distance to the Shooting Star Saloon, Utah’s oldest continuously operating bar. The Saloon is a must-see, by the way. Just be ready for some unusual taxidermy, a very limited burger-focused menu, cash only, and an immersion in local color.

Bright and modern, the Compass Rose Lodge has been rated one of the top boutique hotels in the country, replete with a world-class observatory (the Huntsville Astronomic and Lunar Observatory), a coffee shop, and artfully themed rooms, some with bunk beds ideal for ski racers and families. The lobby is akin to a ski museum reflecting the history of Ogden Valley’s deep ski heritage. The hotel lies within a Dark Sky region, so even if you don’t get to look through the telescope, you’ve got stars for days. Design elements include vintage winter sports equipment, a chair from the world’s first ski lift, fascinating photos, plaques, and other ski memorabilia. Compass Rose Lodge features 15 guest rooms, each showcasing local artwork equipped with modern luxuries and artisanal bath products. From Dark Skies to small-town vibes and incredible ski history, this boutique hotel has it all, so I’m guessing you need to book in advance.

Where to Ski

Powder Mountain

Powder Mountain has to be one of the planet's least hyped, sleepiest, yet sickest resorts. Even before COVID, they were limiting the number of season passes and day passes sold each season, preserving a ton of powder and thousands of acres (and free cats that run all day when they can) for unrivaled Utah powder skiing -- with free parking and few crowds. When I was there, there was still only one bar in the base lodge, the infamous Powder Keg. I toured and skied the entire mountain for two days, and I still remember them being two of the best ski days of my life.

Powder Mountain was the first Utah resort to allow snowboarding in the 1984-’85 season, just 12 years after its opening in 1972. One of its coolest terrain areas is Powder Country, which ends with a dicey hoopty track down to the highway, where shuttles pick you up and bring you back to the main lodge. Also called Woody’s World, the unique shuttle buses have operated since 1981.

They recently opened access to 500 acres of some of the steepest terrain accessible from the mountain, along with the new DMI (Don’t Mention It) drainage with incredible views of the Eden Valley and the Ogden Divide and 3000 vertical feet of skiing and riding through both tight chutes and open bowls via a guided experience beginning with a snowcat ride up Lightning Ridge (followed by a short hike to the drop-in point). It’s the largest multi-season ski resort in America in terms of acreage.

Powder is a unique and dreamy ski area. Still, they are starting to develop it, and they’ve been met with some controversy in recent years as it developed some of its acreage for private residences and private ski slopes, which they said was necessary to pay the bills. According to a letter from Powder Mountain CEO Reed Hastings, the resort invested $20 million into three public lifts (high-speed detachable quad on Paradise, replacing a fixed-grip quad; a fixed-grip quad upgrade on Timberline, replacing a 50-year-old fixed-grip double; and a new fixed-grip quad from the base of Timberline to the top of Lightning Ridge, “opening up vast new lift-served intermediate and expert terrain, and enabling people to ski from Timberline down to Sundown”), but announced they will be designating the Village and Mary’s lifts, which serve beginner and intermediate terrain, plus a new lift on Raintree for private skiing. Hastings, also the principal donor for the Powder Art Foundation , announced another upcoming 900-acre expansion into Wolf Canyon, with even more hike-to and guided terrain. Another change was opening up more season pass sales. They say this move, along with other developments, will help them remain independent and uncrowded, and I certainly wish them the best. They even dropped the price of night skiing down to $19.

Snowbasin Resort

Snowbasin Resort is also in this region. Famed as much for its vaulted lodges, porcelain toilets, high-end customer service and above-average food offerings as for its powder skiing. But this is one of the best and least crowded Utah powder skiing opportunities. If you haven’t heard of Snowbasin, you’re not alone, but your ski bum resume will remain incomplete until you check this one off your list. It’s one of my absolute favorite places to ski in Utah, with free parking, short lift lines, and vast terrain offerings. As one of the oldest continuously-operated ski resorts in the nation, Snowbasin Resort provides unique access to the highest quality terrain on Utah’s renowned Wasatch Front without the crowds.

Snowbasin Resort prides itself on a 325-inch annual snowfall a loyal community of local and international skiers. It is part of the Grand America Hotels & Resorts family of hospitality properties, which also owns Sun Valley. It was recently selected as the official Alpine Skiing venue for the 2034 Winter Olympic and Paralympic Games, following Salt Lake’s successful bid to host the Winter Games for the second time, and since the 2002 SLC Games where Snowbasin has continued to invest in capital improvements. Snowbasin Resort is one of only three resorts in North America to offer start-to-finish skiing on a downhill Olympic trail. The Grizzly Downhill and Wildflower Downhill trails remain in place and will be available in the 2034 Olympics.

Strategic upgrades for the 2025-’26 season include a highly anticipated upgrade to the Becker Chairlift – installed in 1986 – Becker will transition from a fixed-grip triple chair to a detachable quad, cutting ride time in half, refurbished Needles Gondola cabins, improved beginner terrain, and revised parking and entry for optimized flow. The bottom terminal is being repositioned adjacent to the Wildcat Chairlift for easier access. Bear Hollow, Snowshoe, and Slow Road will be widened to improve flow and safety in the Family Zone accessed by this lift. With the announcement of Becker, it will be Snowbasin’s fourth lift addition in the past six seasons: Wildcat Handle Tow (2020), Middle Bowl (2021), and DeMoisy Express (2023). “Snowbasin is committed to being the most accessible mountain in Utah, and these improvements will significantly impact our accessibility and efficiency,” said General Manager Davy Ratchford. “We look forward to welcoming guests to experience these enhancements, which will further elevate our world-class amenities and top-notch service.” Additionally, the resort has expanded parking, enhanced dining options, and increased snowmaking across the mountain.

They will still offer free parking this season – the most free spots in Utah – without reservationsm no small feat given the state of the ski industry nationwide, and free shuttle service from the lots. This summer Snowbasin partnered with the Utah Department of Transportation to implement a new traffic pattern off Trapper’s Loop that allows cars from south and northbound lanes to simultaneously turn onto Snowbasin Road, improving traffic flow and allowing for an estimated 25% increase in vehicle speed. To incentivize carpooling, Earl’s parking lots A-E will be reserved for vehicles with three or more people every weekend until 11:00 a.m., offering express parking and priority access for carpoolers.

Snowbasin remains one of the largest resorts in the state at 3,000 acres, boasting the second-highest vertical drop. It’s cowboy and demure all at once, with an incredible selection of terrain, wonderful backcountry and expert-only access gates, and almost none of the hassles of more developed ski areas.

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