Dog Days Dining-Down South Today

Crabcake Eggs BenedictDoc Lawrence Productions

By Doc Lawrence

Summertime down South is a glorious season for culinary adventures. Al fresco dining with friends, a slower pace that provides more time for enjoying lunch while encouraging good conversation between bites and sips. This is no time for sparse menus: salads do have their place but are not the only options.

It’s time for some culinary excitement. Let’s meet for brunch in some old standbys and then mix up everything with a new kid on the block showcasing creations and variations from other cultures. The dining experience is a universal ritual where friendships are celebrated.

New Orleans Mister Mao Restaurant from Cambodian-American Chef Sophina Uong features a menu of eclectic global-meets-southern cuisine like brunch favorite Kashmiri Hot Chicken Benedict, a spectacular combination of free-range chicken seasoned with ancho, Szechuan peppercorns and black salt lime cream served on a Hawaiian pineapple roll with a slice of Vidalia onion, milk gravy and sunny eggs. A multicultural miracle that will leave you breathless.

Tujague’s, New Orleans second oldest restaurant, is the birthplace of brunch and the heritage Grasshopper cocktail. The cuisine is Creole and the charming French Quarter space is home to executive Chef Gus Martin’s Crab Cake Benedict: peppery blue crab cakes with poached eggs, roasted corn sauce and chive hollandaise.

Another Tujague’s specialty is Chef Martin’s Grilled Gulf Fish, served with baby potatoes, caramelized onion hash, topped with a creamy citrus beurre blanc and seared shrimp.

Travel to Nashville for a brunch surprise, Fried Oysters Benedict. Marsh House is inland Music City’s hot-spot for elevated Gulf coast cuisine. Chef Brian Landry has created a masterpiece, a balanced combination of oysters, spinach, his original recipe remoulade and classic Prosciutto. The Smoked Fish Dip, a blend of Pompano filets and a flavorful cream cheese sauce made with shallots, Dijon mustard, horseradish, chives, lemon, capers, and sour cream is a popular starter. The stellar wine program is one of the most daring in the South.

Nashville attorney Karen Blake divides her time between Music City and coastal Southeast Florida. Her culinary discoveries has, for almost a decade, led me to a new world of flavor adventures including dishes inspired by her Ukrainian heritage. Ms. Blake recommends brunch at The Sandbar Grill at Fort Lauderdale’s Sun Tower Suites which she describes as “a hidden gem [on] a raised dock right on the sand with an unobstructed view of the ocean. Laid back, quality brunch fare, [ ] a little slice of old Fort Lauderdale.” She suggests ordering the lobster or regular Eggs Benedict.

Another of her favorites is Bouchon du Grove, a small French Restaurant “that transports you to a bistro in Paris, instead of Coconut Grove. Share an order of mussels and some French wine. You might need more bread for dipping, the broth is so delicious. Finish with the Chocolate Mousse. You’ll be glad you did.”

Lynne Brandon, a gifted writer blessed with a sophisticed palate, is my time-proven source for reliable dining discoveries particularly in her North Carolina home base. She shared a dining experience that merits a visit to the Tar Heel state soon.

“The New York Times,” according to her, “has hailed Kindred Restaurant as among the best in the country,” adding that the small family-owned eatery in downtown Davidson brings travelers from across the state “for the special dining experience. The North Carolina Flounder Crudo with serrano pepper, grapefruit and al pastor (Spanish marinade), is colorful and delicious; and [the] asparagus with stracciatella, bueurre noisette, rhubarb and bottarga bring the feeling of springtime to the palate. The crispy oysters are a perennial favorite and are served over dill yogurt, calabian chile oil, and prove that seafood . . . can thrive away from the coast.”

The living is easy down here. The essentials for good, fresh food are in place: a huge coastline, long growing seasons, diversified agriculture, abundant and accessible markets. Combine this with traditional inventiveness, a growing number of visionary, influential restaurants and the results are delicious.

Good food, prepared with imagination and a respect for tradition, can lead to a higher life.