The Finger Lakes Region, Once Famous for Their Bubbly, Is Now Making Excellent Pét-Nats

This wine region in New York State is having a sparkling renaissance.

Over the past 50 years, the Finger Lakes wine region in upstate New York has been most recognized for its quality production of international varieties. As of this year, the leading white grape is Riesling, which accounts for about 850 planted acres. Cabernet Franc holds the majority of red wine production with 236 acres.

Historically, the region favored sparkling wines. Some of its earliest wines, produced as far back as the late 1800s, were Champagne-style sparkling wines. The Finger Lakes AVA comprises two sub-appellations that boast a cool climate and produce wines with high acid and bright fruit, notable characteristics for this style. The area is experiencing something of a bubbly renaissance. But instead of traditional French méthode champenoise sparklers, it’s pét-nat that demands attention.

What is pét-nat?

Pét-nat, short for pétillant naturel in French , roughly translates to “naturally sparkling.” It’s an unfiltered style of sparkling wine that’s bottled before fermentation concludes, which produces a musty, fruit-forward taste. In the past decade, pét-nats have benefitted from a trifecta of trends in the wine industry.

Related: What Exactly Is a Pét-Nat?

“In a world where bottle-conditioned ciders, hazy IPAs, and kombucha are all mainstream products, pét-nats aren't really all that strange,” says Phil Plummer, winemaker at Montezuma Winery in Seneca Falls, New York. Plummer says that pét-nat's popularity in the Finger Lakes and beyond speaks to the demands of younger wine consumers.

“Younger generations have been particularly interested in lower-input, more adventurous styles of wine,” says Colleen Hardy, co-owner of Living Roots Wine in Hammondsport, New York. This demographic has fueled the natural wine movement and a new era of sparkling wine. Bottles aren’t reserved only for special occasions. They can be considered everyday wines.

"Pét-nats are not just attractive to consumers. The style is also lucrative from a producer’s perspective. "

“Pét-nat is a perfect example of diversifying the range of sparkling wines on the market to suit more palates and situations,” says Edward Miller, winemaker at Glenora Wine Cellars in Dundee, New York.

Pét-nats are not just attractive to consumers. The style is also lucrative from a producer’s perspective.

“Winery owners appreciate them because they can be released far sooner than traditional-method sparkling wine and require less inputs, both in production materials and equipment,” says Miller.

The history of Finger Lakes sparkling wine

Despite its perception as a relatively young winemaking region, Finger Lakes’ viticulture traces to 1829, when the first vineyards were planted around Keuka Lake in Hammondsport. In 1860, the Pleasant Valley Wine Company, still in existence, became the first bonded winery in the region. And in 1867, it accomplished the unthinkable. Its méthode champenoise, Catawba, was the first American sparkling wine to win a European award, an honorable mention at the Exposition Universelle in Paris.

Its sparkling success lured big names to the region.

In 1936, Charles Fournier left his position as chief winemaker at Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin in Champagne. He trekked to the Finger Lakes to cross French and American vines. These hybrids would alter the region’s future.

Producers quickly rode the wave of hybrid sparklers and sweet wines until Dr. Konstantin Frank came along in 1953. He pioneered the cultivation of European vinifera, notably Riesling, throughout the 1960s and ’70s.

As the availability of vinifera spread throughout the region, Champagne-method production shifted to use those varieties. The hybrids were repurposed to make sweet, still wines.

The current rise in popularity of the region’s pét-nats has created a full-circle moment. Winemakers have rediscovered the advantages of hybrids in sparkling wine, while they continue to use vinifera.

“Pét-nat is a great way to reintroduce hybrids to the market in a way that showcases their strongest attributes while paying homage to the wines that put our region on the map,” says Plummer.

What makes Finger Lakes pét-nat unique?

The use of hybrid grapes like Cayuga, Seyval, Vidal Blanc, Diamond, Marquette, and Frontenac Gris, as well as vinifera (Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Meunier and more) has led to an eccentric array of Finger Lakes pét-nats. All of these wines benefit from the region’s distinct terroir.

“The qualities of the soil [loamy from glacial deposits, with a vein of limestone that stretches across the region] and varied climate promote energy in the grapes, allowing them to present vibrant acidity, while the cool climate preserves freshness and great character for sparkling wine,” says Ria D’Aversa, co-owner and viticulturist at Ria’s Wines in Hector, New York.

The surrounding lakes warm the vineyards in the winter and cool them during summer, which creates an extended growing season.

Ben Riccardi, owner and winemaker at Osmote , based in Burdett, New York, says that the cool nights that start as early as August help maintain the acid required for a successful sparkling wine. The wines reach good phenolic maturity, with potential alcohol levels that reach 10%.

“I can say from experience that the Finger Lakes can produce vibrant, flavorful wines at lower brix than anywhere I have been,” says Miller.

Finger Lake pét-nat wines to try

Buttonwood Grove Cabernet Franc Rosé Pét-Nat ($25)

Winemakers Susan Passmore and Ian Barry introduced pét-nats at Buttonwood Grove in February 2020, when the market for them was rapidly developing.

The winemakers chose grapes that are less commonly used in order to stand out in a crowded market. These include Melody at Buttonwood Grove, and at their sibling winery, Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Meunier. The Cabernet Franc expression is a verified standout, however. Its floral aromas give way to a rhubarb palate, distinguished by a persistent savory quality that accents the freshness.

Local Culture Pinot Noir Pét-Nat ($30)

In 2016, Plummer sought to break a habit of over-intervention, which led him to pét-nats. After years of successful bottlings, he took it further when he created a wild culture pét-nat from Pinot Noir. The crisp, juicy cherry palate is complemented by a slight allspice that’s delightful.

Finger Lakes Pét-Nat Riesling ($26)

Living Roots has produced pét-nats since its debut in 2017. Though the winery experiments with different varieties, it consistently makes a pét-nat Riesling and pét-nat rosé.

“We love showcasing the versatility of Finger Lakes Riesling,” says Hardy. This Riesling is an unfined, wild ferment that features notes of ripe white peach and lemon zest. “It’s bone-dry, bubbly, super-tropical, and [has a] nice complexity,” she says.

This Is Red Pét-Nat  ($24)

“I greet all my guests with white pét-nat,” says Riccardi, who’s produced this style since 2018. As the tasting materializes, however, guests will sample a violet-forward, cedar-tinged pét-nat crafted from the red hybrid grape, DeChaunac. “The red hybrids have a very soft tannin that simply enriches the mouthfeel without drying it,” he says.

Ria’s Pét-Nat ($25)

Founded in 2022 by D’Aversa and her husband, Michael Penn, Ria’s Wines may be the new kid on the block, but it’s adapted quickly. This is evident with the release of its first pét-nat this year. Ria’s Pét-Nat blends two hybrid varieties. “Cayuga brings fresh acidity and neutrality, while Vidal brings a light fruitiness and touch of nuttiness,” says D’Aversa.

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