A hidden Arlington hole-in-the wall has no sign, no hype — just good BBQ & tacos

Inside Look stories give Star-Telegram subscribers exclusive sneak peeks and behind-the-scenes reporting. Story suggestion? Editors@star-telegram.com.

Arlington’s 225° BBQ is halfway to being a great barbecue restaurant, and it’s the best half.

The pork ribs and brisket rank near the top, and the Mexi-cue tacos, birria ramen, chipotle chicken nachos and brisket-stuffed habaneros are firing up downtown Arlington.

The food is fine. The new indoor 225° BBQ, 601 E. Main St., only needs a few expected conveniences.

LIke maybe ... a sign.

Right now, 225° BBQ is a hidden hole-in-the-wall with no sign in a former sports bar on a dead-end street.

You have to know where to find it — a block north of East Abram Street — and look for the tiny numbers “601.”

Also, 225° BBQ might need some basic comforts.

Like, say, more napkins or paper towels. And some hot sauce. And maybe a light bulb or two in what is still a dark bar.

But that’s all really small stuff for 225° BBQ, making its debut after five years as a prize-winning barbecue food trailer and mobile stand.

In a city where state No. 1 Goldee’s is nearby and the barbecue ranges from first-rate Hurtado to eclectic Smoke’N Ash to old-school David’s or Jambo’s , the little 225° BBQ stand owned by Joyce and Rene Ramirez has built a reputation for big flavor and little hype.

Rene Ramirez started coking at a family reunion 10 years ago, he wrote by email, when relatives competed to see who could smoke the best meats.

“I didn’t know anything about smoking meats at the time,” he wrote — “so I lost.”

That spurred him to learn the business, and soon, he started catering. The original location was in Dallas, he wrote, where customers wanted tacos more than barbecue.

Now, patrons get both.

Texas Monthly praised the stuffed habaneros. The Dallas Observer discovered the brisket elote .

Last year, KERA/90.1 FM listeners voted 225° BBQ their favorite of all .

It opens Thursdays through Sundays from lunch until 7 p.m.

Best of all, unlike those famous restaurants, it doesn’t have much of a line. And the brisket doesn’t run out until well into the afternoon.

But don’t wait too long.

At midafternoon on a Saturday, i found 225° BBQ and held the door open for a family to go in ahead.

Then, I found out they scored the last brisket burger special.

The day’s special was a ground brisket cheeseburger with more sliced brisket on top, plus birria tacos and a side dish, all for $20. Oh, well.

Instead, a combination plate of brisket, ribs and chicken with Mexican street corn and mac-and-cheese ($24) was more than enough for two meals.

The brisket was silky and had the peppery bark you expect from today’s craft barbecue.

The ribs were hefty, with pork that easily fell away from the bone.

The only utensils at 225° BBQ are plastic forks and knives, but that’s no drawback. Both the brisket and pork melted apart.

The chicken wasn’t as distinctive, so next time maybe get the honey-glazed pork belly or jalapeno sausage.

Two more things 225° BBQ doesn’t have yet: desserts or beer.

A BYOB restaurant means it’s even a better value. As for the desserts, have another stuffed habanero.

It’s open from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Thursdays through Sundays; 817-962-0226 , facebook.com/225BBQ .