Ace your base: expert makeup artist shares how to ensure your foundation lasts all day

Whether your foundation needs to go the distance from 7am for a full day’s work or you’re seeking a stay-all-day makeup look for a special event, the key to a flawless base is all in the application.

From dry or dehydrated to combination and oily skin, makeup can fade or go patchy without the correct prep and products best suited to your skin type.

Oil production within the skin can cause foundation to slide off, while dry and dehydrated types may absorb or ‘drink’ a foundation if the appropriate hydrating products aren’t used first.

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Add into the mix an ever-changing climate, from a blustery commute to fluctuating office air con and heating, and it can seem challenging to hone a makeup look you can rely on.

With over 20 years’ professional experience, including creating red-carpet looks for the likes of Gabriella Wilde and Lady Kitty Spencer, Estée Lauder Global Pro Makeup Artist Emma Tillman has the expert knowledge to create a flawless and long-lasting base.

We asked her for a makeup masterclass…

Foundation application tips for oily or combination skin

How should oilier skin types prep their skin before makeup?

Emma: “ Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair is the perfect prep for those who like a matte base, as this serum is oil free but still plumps and hydrates the skin.

Oilier skin types can also opt for an oil-free moisturiser on top to control oil throughout the day and help keep skin matte. DayWear Anti-Oxidant 72H-Hydration Sorbet Moisturiser Creme and Revitalizing Supreme+ Youth Power Soft Creme Moisturiser are both great options.”

Which skin types are Double Wear Stay-in-Place Makeup SPF 10 and Double Wear Flawless Wear Concealer best for?

Emma: “ Double Wear Stay-in-Place Makeup SPF 10 can be used on all skin types, but I advise tailoring your skincare and primer to suit your skin’s needs.”

As the number one-selling prestige foundation in the UK*, Estée Lauder’s Double Wear is an icon of modern makeup. Available in 60 shades, this fresh matte, waterproof oil-free makeup controls shine all day and is sweat-, heat- and humidity-resistant, offering 24-hour colour-true coverage you can trust.

Unifying uneven skin tone and covering imperfections with buildable, medium-to-full coverage that still feels lightweight and comfortable, it offers a modern take on traditional long-wear foundations, and is the makeup that keeps up no matter where your day takes you.

To find your ideal shade match, first narrow down via your skin’s intensity level (from light to deep) then choose your undertone (cool, neutral or warm):

• Cool (C) undertones: Bare skin which has a rosy tone and burns easily in the sun
• Neutral (N) undertones: Bare skin which is more even toned, not too pink or golden
• Warm (W) undertones: Bare skin which has a golden or olive tone and tans easily in the sun

You can also find your perfect shade online using your phone camera: visit the Estée Lauder Virtual Try On Tool .

How should you apply Double Wear Foundation?

Emma: “Use a brush to apply a light layer of Double Wear all over the skin starting at the centre of your face – a little goes a long way. When you’ve done this, you can then assess if any areas need extra coverage. If so, simply add another thin layer on top of those areas for maximum coverage.”

• For a barely there look: Mix your Double Wear Stay-in-Place Foundation with a drop of Advanced Night Repair Serum
• For extra coverage: Follow with Double Wear Concealer under the eyes and on any blemishes

Do you advise applying concealer or foundation first?

Emma: “I love to apply foundation first as this often achieves most of the coverage you need. That way you don’t apply concealer where it’s not needed. Once the foundation has been applied all over, you can then pat a little concealer on to any areas that need extra cover, and this will melt into the foundation for a seamless blend.”

Should your concealer be a shade lighter than your foundation, or only under the eyes?

Emma: “For additional coverage on the skin, a concealer the exact shade of your foundation will give you the perfect finish. However, under the eyes, if you prefer to have a brightening effect, you can opt for a shade lighter.”

Offering the signature Double Wear look of flawless skin with coverage that lasts all day, Stay-in-Place Flawless Wear Concealer is transfer-resistant and colour-true, with medium buildable pigment that won't slip, slide or crease.

Formulated with minerals and emollients to help condition skin and make blending easy, it offers the perfect finishing touch to your foundation.

Do you recommend setting makeup with powder or setting spray for oilier skin types?

Emma: “I love to use a small amount of translucent powder on my clients after applying foundation. However, I will only apply this on the areas needed, such as the T-zone or areas that may be prone to oil. This not only adds a natural matte finish, but also blurs the look of pores on the T-zone.”

What is the best way for oilier skin types to touch up their makeup halfway through the day?

Emma: “The great thing with Double Wear is that it is 24-hour wear, so is unlikely to move. However, you may still get some oily areas on the skin throughout the day. This won’t lift off your Double Wear, as the formula is completely breathable, so simply take a tissue or a blotting paper and blot away any oil.”

Foundation application tips for normal, dry or dehydrated skin

How should normal or combination skin types prep their skin before makeup?

Emma: “For a client who loves a glowy, hydrating base, opt for layers of skincare to keep the skin at maximum hydration levels all day. I love to use the Micro Essence Treatment Lotion first for a light veil of hydration, followed by Advanced Night Repair to boost moisture with hyaluronic acid. Then seal it all in place with an oil-based moisturiser. I love the Revitalizing Supreme+ Youth Power Creme as its balm-like texture leaves the skin feeling silky but not weighed down.”

Where should a skin tint or sheer coverage foundation be applied?

Emma: “For those clients who want a skin-like finish, Futurist SkinTint Serum Foundation SPF 20 is a great option. It gives a gentle glow and natural coverage. The beauty is that because of these traits, you don’t have to use it all over, and can just smooth it onto your areas of concern without any visible joins.

"Meanwhile, Futurist Hydra Rescue Moisturizing Makeup SPF 45 gives medium-to-full coverage, so this works better applied all over the face. The glow from this foundation is stunning and is the perfect blend of coverage, care and radiance.”

With a silky, skin-caring serum, Futurist SkinTint Serum SPF 20 has the beauty benefits of a sheer, tinted skin-tone perfector and instantly creates an ultra-natural radiant finish with light coverage that is sweat and humidity resistant.

Offering all-day staying power in 29 shades, it remains non-streaking, non-creasing and non-poring – and stays colour-true with a hydrating formula to ensure moisture and radiance are locked in all day.

Skin feels comfortable, and the complexion appears more refined with a softer, smoother texture and imperfections diffused.

Created with skin-boosting nutrients, a unique botanical oil infusion helps nourish and strengthen while soft clay cocoons surround the oils to create a comfortable, quick-setting finish that’s lightweight and glowing, without any unwanted shine or grease.

Fast becoming a beauty-editor favourite, Futurist Hydra Rescue Moisturizing Makeup SPF 45 bestows breathable, skin-loving coverage with a 12-hour radiant glow.

Formulated with an IonCharged Water Complex, probiotic technology and chia-seed extract, it covers imperfections and evens skin tone, hydrating the skin instantly and bolstering its defences from UVA and UVB damage with SPF 45 broad-spectrum protection.

Available in 28 shades with buildable medium-to-full coverage, this lightweight, natural-looking makeup gives a ‘your skin but better’ glow.

Each of these foundations are also available to try on with Estée Lauder’s Virtual Try-On Tool .

What are the best application tips for a sheer, 'your skin but better' base?

Emma: “Lighter layers of products work best for this look. Start by applying your skincare in light layers and massage into the skin. Then apply a hydrating primer such as the Futurist Aqua Brilliance Watery Glow Primer for a boost of moisture and added glow. I then love to use a buffing brush to apply the foundation. Apply a small amount at a time, focusing on the areas of concern, and gradually building until you have your desired look.”

Should you apply concealer straight to skin from the doe-foot applicator or to the back of your hand and coat the brush first for the most flawless result?

Emma: “I love to start on the back of my hand or a palette, so I have more control over the coverage. Press your brush into the product and then tap it lightly on the back of your hand to remove any excess. Then apply to the skin in light layers, gradually building until you feel happy with the look. You can always add more, but it’s tricky to sheer out if you apply too much directly to the skin.”

Futurist Soft Touch Brightening Skincealer Concealer offers a soft, radiant finish for dry, normal and combination skin types. With its clever formula, skin is instantly hydrated and looks brighter and more radiant as the formula plumps fine, dry lines and boosts hydration with every wear.

Should we set makeup with a powder or a setting spray when seeking a sheer foundation look?

Emma: “I try to avoid too much powder when people want a sheer or glowy look. You can add a touch of translucent powder using a small brush to any areas of concern, such as the under eyes or around the creases of the nose, but I always finish with a setting spray. Not only does the Set + Refresh Perfecting Makeup Mist add an extra burst of hydration, but it also sets everything in place for all-day wear.”

*Source: Circana Group (UK) Ltd. Retail Tracking Service. Prestige Makeup Foundation by Product, April 2023 – March 2024, unit and value sales.

From matte to glow, find your perfect foundation match in the Estée Lauder collection, available at Estée Lauder counters nationwide and on the Estée Lauder site .