This Delicious Parisian Apertif Is Making a Comeback

When made well, a great apertif can be the perfect start to a delicious meal. Given the glowing reputation of French cuisine, it’s not all that surprising to know that a host of delicious apertifs also have their origins in France — and one of them has, until recently, flown just below the radar. In a new article for Punch, Nicola Leigh Stewart makes a very good case for why the Fond de Culotte is worth ordering — or mixing at home.

If you’re wondering what the Fond de Culotte is, you’re not alone; Stewart notes that there’s something a bit mysterious about the drink. At its core is the French spirit Suze, a bitter alcohol made from gentian and available on both sides of the Atlantic. (The company behind it also makes a non-alcoholic version.) Stewart points to a version of the cocktail made with crème de cassis and lemon; an Instagram account dedicated to European cocktails also provided a recipe that adds lemon syrup and tea-infused gin into the mix.

As Stewart explains at Punch, the Fond de Culotte has a longstanding association with Suze, which has led to its popularity waxing and waning as gentian spirits have gone in and out of fashion. (The cocktail is also known as a Suze-cassis.) Stewart cites Paris’s Experimental Cocktail Club as one high-profile location that’s been experimenting with both gentian spirits and the Fond de Culotte, albeit in an off-menu capacity.

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As with many modern cocktails, contemporary bartenders have sought a number of different ways to re-interpret a classic recipe. One expert, Le Syndicat’s Rose-Manon Baux, told Punch that they took the approach of “highlighting the fruitiness of such a drink and turning it into a carbonated highball that pays tribute to the French aperitif tradition.” With both Suze and crème de cassis readily available, it might be time to experiment with this recipe on your own and see where things wind up.