Crazy Rich Airplane Seats: What It’s Like to Take the World’s Longest Flight

Of all the places you could be trapped for 18 hours, a plane has got to be up there with the worst. But what if you’re sitting up front, and what if that plane is managed by Singapore Airlines, whose many 2024 laurels from Skytrax, the organization that tracks passengers flying preferences, include best Asian business class, best cabin crew in the world and second-best overall airline in the world? Could you do it? How does nearly a full day in the sky unfold? InsideHook correspondent Adam Erace recently flew SQ21 from Newark to the Southeast Asian metropolis, currently the longest flight in the world, to find out.

9:10 a.m.: After spending an hour in the British Airways Galleries lounge, Singapore’s lounge partner at EWR, I head to gate to board. On this route, Singapore operates an Airbus A350-900 ULR (ultra long range) aircraft with a two-cabin layout: two sections of business class and one section of premium economy. I drop into seat 28D, a 28-inch-wide business-class throne upholstered in a plummy gray Scottish leather, and start exploring the multiple storage compartments and adjustable seating functions. There is no amenity kit, which I expected thanks to a head up from my aviation pal, Zach Honig, who told me to request one from a flight attendant.

9:28 a.m.: Cheryl, my flight attendant, introduces herself and serves orange juice — not fresh-squeezed, which you’d be forgiven for expecting for a $7,819 ticket. I inquire about an amenity kit but, so sorry, there are none onboard — which, again, you’d be forgiven for expecting for a $7,819 ticket. (Singapore Air reps, when asked about this after the flight, cited supply chain issues, so we’re still doing that.) This was the round-trip cost of my trip, booked relatively last-minute, with the outbound in business comprising the bulk of fare. (I’ll be flying in the last row of premium-economy cabin on the way home and am trying not to think about it.)

Full disclosure: A hotel company whose properties I’m visiting in Southeast Asia bought my ticket, but my wife is traveling with me, and we paid a full fare for hers. I’ll use Amex points to erase about two grand from the charge, then write the rest off.

9:33 a.m.: Hot towel? Yes, thank you.

9:35 a.m.: “All our distinguished guests are onboard,” the earnest lead flight attendant informs over the PA, “Along with my crew who I consider family.” The Menu vibes.

9:56 a.m.: The actual menu is several pages, which I peruse through as the plane takes off and we slowly ascend into the sky and turn north. Among Singapore’s Skytrax awards is first place for business-class catering, and I’ve heard very good things about the food onboard. Lunch should begin roughly an hour after take-off, and I’m excited to eat.

10:10 a.m.: I successfully connect my phone to the onboard WiFi, which is free for passengers in business. (If you’re in premium economy, you just need to sign up for Singapore’s frequent-flyer program, KrisFlyer, for access). Across multiple devices, this internet will remain fast and reliable for the entire flight, a benefit that can’t be overstated. If you have WiFi calling enabled, you can even make and receive phone calls; just don’t be a jerk about it.

10:24 a.m.: “Still or sparkling water?” Cheryl offers post-departure hydration after we hit cruising altitude. She serves me a Perrier with lemon. Classy.

10:32 a.m.: Warm nuts arrive, just as I’m starting to realize the croissant and banana I ate in the lounge wasn’t a sufficient breakfast.

11:33 a.m.: Cheryl covers my tray table with a white cloth and delivers the first course for lunch: cold-smoked trout arranged with baby greens, pears and walnuts tossed in a gingery vinaigrette. On the side is bowl of melon, pineapple, strawberries and grapes, along with a petite cheese plate from Oregon’s Rogue Creamery, walnuts, membrillo and a packet of Carr’s water crackers. Food is delicious as advertised.

11:38 a.m.: A breadbasket appears alongside my seat, from which I select a rye-looking roll and piece of garlic bread. “Anything else?” Cheryl asks. I’m feeling celebratory: Champagne.

12:27 p.m.: Singapore pours Piper Heidsiek in business, and a flute appears with the second course of lunch. One of the airline’s most beloved features is its Book the Cook program, which lets passengers pre-order their meal-service entrees from a long list, beyond what is available on the inflight menu. About five days before my flight, I went onto the Singapore app and navigated to the Book the Cook options, where I selected the Hainanese chicken rice. I’m so happy with the choice. The chicken is moist and intensely savory; I experiment with different proportions of the three accompanying sauce: kecap manis, sambal and grated ginger.

12:54 p.m.: Dessert: pistachio-praline layer cake with a lid of chocolate ganache, and a coffee.

1:01 p.m.: I’m an easily distracted writer — the dog needs to be pet I could use a snack did I water the plants today who is directing Scream VII I should look that up — so I really, really value the deep focus I can achieve on a long-haul flight. As soon as the cabin crew clears my lunch stuff, I order another coffee, open my laptop and start working on an article about a recent trip to Mallorca.

4:56 p.m.: I bang out an entire first draft in about four hours, then close my computer as the plane skirts Greenland, heading toward the Arctic Ocean.

5:10 p.m.: I’ve been up since 4:30 a.m. I live in Philly and had to catch an early train to Newark, and that’s starting to hit. I head to the bathroom to pop out my contacts, brush my teeth, etc. The lav is small and sparsely equipped, a big disappointment for business class on an Asian airline. You get nicer bathrooms in coach on American’s Dreamliners.

5:19 p.m.: Back in my seat, I recline halfway and bring up the leg rest. It’s extremely comfortable and almost couch-like. My back-up flight attendant (Cheryl is on break now) confirms my pre-order for the second meal: Massaman beef curry. I ask when that will be served. “In about five hours, but we have lots of snacks if you get hungry. Would you like something to drink?” I don’t drink hot tea at home but often do on planes since airline coffee is usually wastewater. Singapore has an extensive tea menu: masala chai, pu-erh, vanilla rooibos and a dozen more. Since I want to sleep, I order caffeine-free peppermint.

5:32 p.m.: Movie selected: Mad Max: Fury Road — relaxing!

5:34 p.m.: Tea served.

5:52 p.m.: Flight attendants are coming up and down the aisles, seeing if passengers are ready for bed. Unlike many other lie-flat products, Singapore’s seat doesn’t simply recline all the way down with a push button; the cabin crew physically converts it into a bed measuring a whopping six-and-a-half feet long.

6:07 p.m.: My seat converted, I’m propped up with pillows and feeling comfortable physically, but Fury Road is like injecting emotional anxiety into your carotid artery. This was a terrible idea. Taking the off-ramp and going to try and settle down for a nap.

6:45 p.m.: The monster at 27K has his shade up, making the cabin too bright to sleep. I prop myself back up and try another movie, How to Train Your Dragon, which I’ve never seen and hope will be soothing.

7:30 p.m.: Starting to feel a little hungry so I ping the flight attendant and order noodles with greens and mushrooms from the on-demand refreshment menu, along with a Kit Kat. I mean to order another peppermint tea but for some stupid reason, ask for a jasmine tea instead, which has caffeine (fuck).

7:52 p.m.: Why did a cup of tea take 22 minutes?

8:18 p.m.: Why did a bowl of soup take 48 minutes? Honestly, though, these brothy noodles, which arrived in a white-lidded casserole, are so delicious I’m just happy to be in their company. Also, How to Train Your Dragon, is great, 10/10 recommend for adults and children.

8:37 p.m.: Sleep attempt, take two, as we cross over the Kuril-Kamchatka Trench, just northeast of Japan.

10:17 p.m.: Cabin lights and flight attendants marching up the aisles makes me sit up, having not so much slept as laid down with my eyes forced closed and drifted a bit, like when you’re getting your wisdom teeth out. For as comfortable as the seat is, and as nice as the pillows and duvet are, the integrated mattress pad is thin and basically feels like sleeping on the floor. I resume watching How to Train Your Dragon.

10:23 p.m.: The second meal service begins with a tuft of lettuces and microgreens. Tender poached shrimp recline on top, painted with a tangy Meyer lemon aioli.

10:46 p.m.: Braised cubes of beef and hunks of potato in a lightly spicy brown gravy comprise the tasty Massaman curry. A mound of fluffy jasmine rice and sautéed mushrooms, baby corn and bok choi accompany.

11:22 p.m.: A cart rolls through with individual desserts entombed in little plastic coffins: fruit plate, cheese plate, madeleine cake studded with berries, brownie caramel cake. I take the fruit — all of the fruit onboard has been notably fresh and sweet — and the madeleine, which is cold, dense and the only bad thing I’ve eaten on this plane so far.

11:26 p.m.: With Vikings and dragons now peacefully coexisting, I start another movie, Jason Statham’s The Beekeeper. I’m grateful for how atrocious it is, because I begin dipping half an hour in.

12:07 a.m.: Running on East Coast time, my brain and body throw in the towel. I lay down and go out immediately.

2:25 a.m.: Two uninterrupted hours of solid sleep is a lot for me on an airplane, so I’m happy to have banked this shut-eye. With about two and half hours left in the flight, I hit my call button and ask the flight attendant to convert the bed back to a seat.

4:11 a.m.: I finish The Beekeeper (rough) and scan the inflight entertainment menu for something mindlessly entertaining to pass the last hour. Modern Family.

4:55 a.m.: My seat is in the middle of a 1-2-1 configuration, so I’m craning my neck to see out the window of my neighbor across the aisle. I’m following the flight map on my TV, so I know we’re landing soon, but it’s just water, water, water beneath us.

5:01 a.m.: Land suddenly appears, shaggy and profuse with tropical greenery. We’re on the ground in Singapore, where the local time is 5:01 p.m., 12 hours ahead of New York.

5:10 a.m.: Exactly 18 hours after boarding, I wave goodbye to Cheryl and the cabin crew and deplane into the frosty air conditioning of Singapore Changi Airport. I feel…not exactly bright-eyed, but coupled with the adrenaline rush of being in a new place, refreshed enough to push through pre-dinner cocktails and an entire tasting menu revolving around a glorious Peking duck. I’ll eventually pass out sitting up in bed around 11 p.m., Singapore time.