With Their Williamsburg Restaurant Kokomo, Ria and Kevol Graham Transport Diners To The Caribbean

In 2020, when Ria and Kevol Graham were originally set to open their restaurant Kokomo it seemed like they were at the bottom of their proverbial Mount Everest trying to figure out how to scale the thing.

Kokomo's lush decorPhoto byKatrine Moite

Set just across from the waterfront in Williamsburg they were devoted to transporting guests to the Caribbean without leaving Brooklyn. “The Caribbean is so versatile, and over hundreds of years has formed its own beautiful melting pot of cultures from Africa, Asia, Europe and the Americas,” says Ria who, along with Kevol was raised in New York City and has deep Caribbean roots. (Her mother is from Trinidad, her father hails from Grenada.) “The stories that we tell culturally and through our food are unique.” 

Ria had spent her early career in marketing and sales for a local Caribbean restaurant. Kevol worked for many years curating dining experiences as part of a band of roving chefs. But neither of them had ever opened their own restaurant. “Our second child was due on March 21, 2020, and our restaurant was scheduled to open in April 2020,” says Ria. That was until the pandemic shut everything down in March, 2020.

“We had invested our life savings and also enlisted our parents to invest in this venture. It was a huge bet on ourselves,” says Ria who shares that their families understood the goal of building generational wealth. At that point they realized they had to move forward despite all the obstacles.

“That was the time to admit failure and sink into a depression but we understood that we had few alternatives,” says Ria.  After overcoming the shock of Covid-19, they shared their story on social media and got back overwhelming encouragement. “As first time restaurateurs, and with no knowledge of how to operate in a Covid-19 environment, we opened Kokomo’s doors on July 4th, 2020,” says Ria.

Kevol and Ria GrahamPhoto by@underground_nyc

Opening a restaurant in any climate is hard. Then there’s the pressure of opening your first restaurant. “Adding the pressure of COVID-19 took it to another level,” says Ria. “There was an immense labor shortage, strenuous rules and regulations and the great unknown of what tomorrow would bring.” Despite the ever-changing regulations they were able to stay afloat. “We have a great team that we painstakingly grew,” says Ria. “ Their passion and commitment to Kokomo keep us humble.”

But they didn’t just stay afloat, they soared. “Every night is a celebration at Kokomo, which may be the pandemic’s best scene restaurant,” raved Pete Wells in his glowing New York Times review. The restaurant continues to be a hot spot. 


Meanwhile, Ria and Kevol remain emboldened by all the success and the opportunity to share their passion in such a unique setting. “There is something about eating Caribbean food, sipping on a rum punch or pina colada, listening to Caribbean music, watching the sunset and feeling the breeze float off the water,” she says about sitting outside on the patio in the warmer months.. “You forget that you are in New York City for a couple hours. It’s priceless.” 

The Calypso Burger with gruyere cheese, grilled pineapple and guava barbecue saucePhoto byKatrine Moite

Ria Graham shared more.

When did you know that being a restaurateur was the life for you?


I discovered my passion for this business in 2019. I was newly wed and a stay at home mom caring for my newborn baby. To ease the financial burden that comes with having a new family and living on one income in New York City, we moved into my parents’ basement. I wanted more for my family and I had a burning desire to build generational wealth. My husband, Kevol and I have a background in culinary, sales and marketing so an entrepreneurial path in hospitality was a natural choice for us.

How would you describe Kokomo’s unique and beautiful decor? 


Few people know the level of detail that went into designing and creating Kokomo. Our goal was to create an ambiance that is immersive to transport our guests to the Caribbean every time they enter our doors. Our designer, Dara Young from The Aviva Collective, created multiple Caribbean inspired, intimate dining spaces. We have a sunset cafe we call “Lovers Rock” that has two person swings hanging from the ceiling to ignite the feeling of an intimate Caribbean romance. Peta-Gaye Shoucair of ashoucairdesign.com is the interior designer of the exterior cabaña lounge, stairwell, entry oasis, Lovers Rock archway, and champagne lounge.

The focal point of our main room is a communal table to welcome families, friends, and strangers to enjoy a delicious Caribbean feast while overlooking our beautifully lit bamboo bar that symbolizes positive energy and strength. This room also has an art installation lovingly designed by Dara Young that intricately recreates a Caribbean village outfitted with miniature stores and people. Our backroom was designed to embody the beauty and lushness of a Caribbean rainforest. and our downstairs champagne room designed with colors of the Caribbean sea to evoke an underwater glamorous cave experience. We strived to hit all the marks of what makes the Caribbean so special.


How did you come up with the menu and what are some dishes that make you particularly proud?

Kevol and I were both raised in New York City and have deep roots in our Caribbean heritage. We knew we wanted to design the menu to reflect our background and the many countries that influenced Caribbean culture as the legacy of colonization. One of our dishes that says it best is our Wah Gwan Flatbread. The flatbread crust is a traditions New York City brick oven crust (a nod to the community we grew up in), the base is a tomato confit which reflects the French influence in the Caribbean and the stars of the dish are the ackee (a national fruit in Jamaica) and sautéed jerk shrimp. We then drizzle our cilantro sauce as our final nod to the Latin influence.


You are partners in life and business. How do you make it work as a couple? 


I love how we both know how important this business is but don’t push each other past our limits. Our workload is sometimes balanced and other times extremely unbalanced based on what the other person has going on. We’re husband and wife first, and business partners second. First and foremost, we make sure that our mental and physical health is sound. If we don’t take care of and support each other, we will not be able to enjoy the fruits of our labor and hard earned success. 

Was there a specific moment you can describe when you knew you were succeeding? 


Kokomo has evolved over the years as we strive to complete the vision of a truly immersive space. We had many opportunities to say “wow” as each new feature was installed! It’s like receiving a special gift over and over.  We are in awe of what we have created.  

The New York Times article had us cringing, laughing and crying at the same time.  It was an honest assessment of who we were at the time but solidified that we were on to something great. To this day, it remains a reminder of how far we have come from those early days to the gem of what Kokomo has become. 

If someone were to ask, "why is Kokomo special?" what would you say? 


It is rare to find a place like Kokomo in NYC, especially in the Williamsburg area. From our unique decor and curated spaces, to the modern twist on Caribbean classics, Kokomo is truly one of a kind.