KNWA & FOX24 - Northwest Arkansas & River Valley News
Fort Smith’s roots in the wild, wild west
By Reagan Netherland,
2024-08-31
FORT SMITH, Ark. (KNWA/KFTA) — Fort Smith was once a Wild West hotspot where law and legend clashed.
Saddle up for an abbreviated look at the River Valley city’s role in shaping the Wild West, from its early days as a strategic outpost to its transformation into a key player in Western expansion.
The gateway to the Wild West
Established in 1817, Fort Smith began as a military post aimed at keeping peace between the Osage and Cherokee tribes.
Strategically located at Belle Point with a commanding view of the Arkansas River, Fort Smith was crucial for defense and surveillance, aiding the U.S. Army’s regional control efforts, according to the Encyclopedia of Arkansas .
As tensions between Native American tribes and settlers grew, Fort Smith evolved from a military outpost into a central hub for westward expansion, especially during the Mexican-American War and the California Gold Rush.
The fort served as a vital departure point for soldiers, traders, and settlers, linking the eastern United States with the expanding frontier.
Law and order on the frontier
Fort Smith is known for its role in enforcing law and order in the Wild West, particularly during Judge Isaac C. Parker’s tenure from 1875 to 1896.
Parker presided over the U.S. District Court for the Western District of Arkansas, which had jurisdiction over the Indian Territory (now Oklahoma), a region with high crime rates, according to the Encyclopedia of Arkansas .
Parker’s court handled thousands of cases, many involving serious crimes, and resulted in numerous executions.
Famous outlaws and their time in Fort Smith
The Rufus Buck Gang The Buck Gang, consisting of five Native Americans (Rufus Buck, Sam Sampson, Maoma July, Lewis Davis, and Lucky Davis), embarked on a violent crime spree in July 1895 that lasted two weeks and was noted for its unprecedented level of violence in the Indian Territories, according to “ Law West of Fort Smith; a history of frontier justice in the Indian Territory (1834-1896) ” by Glenn Shirley.
On August 9, 1895, they were captured by a posse of citizens and U.S. Deputy Marshals after a gunfight. Despite their efforts to resist, the gang surrendered when they ran out of ammunition.
They were tried and convicted of rape in Fort Smith in September 1895. All five were sentenced to death by hanging and executed on July 1, 1896.
Belle Starr
Belle Starr, known as the “Queen of the Outlaws,” became famous posthumously due to exaggerated tales in dime novels and media.
During her lifetime, she was a known figure in Fort Smith and was convicted only once, for horse theft in 1886, according to “ Law West of Fort Smith .
Much of her outlaw legend, including supposed ties to Quantrill’s Raiders and Cole Younger, is likely fictional.
She married three times: Jim Reed, Sam Starr and Jim July, with whom she had a troubled relationship, according to “ Law West of Fort Smith .” Belle was killed on February 3, 1889, likely by her husband Jim July, and was found near her cabin in Oklahoma.
She was buried near her cabin, with a headstone paid for by her daughter Pearl.
Today, her grave is maintained by the Oklahoma Historical Society, and the site is part of an Oklahoma State Park.
Cherokee Bill Crawford Goldsby’s, better known as Cherokee Bill, outlaw career began at eighteen and was marked by violence and crime.
Known for his involvement with the Bill Cook gang, Cherokee Bill’s criminal activities included numerous robberies and murders. He first came into legal trouble at seventeen and later gained notoriety for shooting Ernest Melton during a robbery, according to “ Law West of Fort Smith .”
After being captured in January 1895 for robbing a train, Bill was convicted of Melton’s murder. During his imprisonment, he attempted to escape but was persuaded to surrender by fellow outlaw Henry Starr.
Cherokee Bill was executed on March 17, 1896, and famously said, “I came here to die, not make a speech” before his execution.
Fort Smith’s role as a gateway to the West also spurred its economic growth.
In the late nineteenth century, Fort Smith experienced rapid growth, with its population nearly tripling during the 1880s, according to the Encyclopedia of Arkansas .
Fort Smith expanded its commercial trading and established Garrison Avenue as a major retail and wholesale center.
The arrival of railroad transportation in the 1870s further boosted economic activity, offering an important alternative to river transport.
The discovery of natural gas in 1887 attracted manufacturers, including a notable glass-manufacturing industry, and the city also developed a strong furniture manufacturing sector.
This economic expansion continued into the early twentieth century, with further industrial and infrastructural growth supporting Fort Smith’s development, according to the Encyclopedia of Arkansas .
Today, several protected historical sites in Fort Smith preserve the city’s Wild West heritage, including:
Miss Laura’s Social Club
Miss Laura’s Social Club, located at 123 First Street in Fort Smith, Arkansas, was originally built in 1896 as the Riverfront Commercial Hotel and converted into a brothel by Laura Ziegler in 1903.
From 1907 to 1924, the city was one of the rare cases in U.S. history where prostitution was not only legalized but also regulated within a designated district known as “the Row.”
Miss Laura’s Social Club was one of the most renowned bordellos in the Southwest and was one of several buildings on “The Row,” according to the Encyclopedia of Arkansas .
The building faced demolition in 1963 but was saved by Donald Reynolds, who purchased it and restored it.
It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1973 and opened as a restaurant in 1984 before becoming a visitor center in 1992, according to the Encyclopedia of Arkansas .
In July 2024, it was announced that the Fort Smith Visitors Center would relocate to a new site at 524 Garrison Avenue to improve accessibility and suitability for children.
The U.S. Marshals Service, established in 1789, sought a new museum site after its exhibit “America’s Traveling Star” closed in Laramie, Wyoming, in 2002.
Fort Smith was chosen as the new museum location, with an official announcement on January 4, 2007. according to the Encyclopedia of Arkansas . The Westphal family donated land, and Polk Stanley Wilcox Architects and Cambridge Seven Associates designed the museum to resemble a U.S. Marshal’s badge.
The U.S. Marshals Museum, featuring exhibits on the history of the service, frontier marshals and modern technology, opened on July 1, 2023.
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