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Los Angeles Magazine
Celebrating L.A.'s Favorite Street Food on National Hot Dog Day
By Lina Lecaro,
4 days ago
"Hot Dog! Hot Dog! Hot Dog!"
The bacon-wrapped hot dog is an end-of-the-night staple in L.A., as reliably ubiquitous outside concerts, sporting events and clubs as its vendors' familiar chants to get our attention to buy them. But they needn't to say a word. The seductive aroma of gristle and its bacon, onion and pepper glut alone will compel meat-eaters to fork over anywhere from $5-10 (and most carts now accept Venmo), especially after a night of dancing, drinking or singing along to our favorite music act.
Street Dogs' guilty pleasures are widely agreed to have originated in Sonora, Mexico. Sonoran Dogs are also topped with beans, jalapeño sauce, avocado and pico de gallo, but the pared-down versions popular in the U.S., particularly in Los Angeles, have become a universal hit with a tried-and-true assortment of toppings.
Los Angeles delved into the savory splendor of this popular foodcart item with a street food expert, LA Taco 's Javier Cabral (author of “ Oaxaca: Home Cooking From the Heart of Mexico ” and “ Asada: The Art of Mexican-Style Grilling ” as well as an associate producer on Neflix's The Taco Chronicles ) to understand how each component comes together to create its mouth-watering magic.
The Toppings
What tops the dog may vary depending on the cart, but the caramelized medley of onions and peppers is definitely a star ingredient, adding texture and zest to the juicy goodness of the meat. Aside from chiles, other unique garnishes you may find at some carts, either mixed in or on the side, include pineapple, cilantro and tomato.
“My favorite variation is in the Fashion District in Downtown because those hot dogs have a guacamole/salsa Mexicana style relish that takes it to another level,” Cabral says.
The Chiles and Condiments
For those looking to spice up their dogs, a variety of chillies can be found on some of the more discerning street vendor carts. Jalapeño tends to be the most popular, either diced or roasted whole on the cart’s stainless steel griddle.
“[Chiles] are what distinguish the L.A.-style street dog,” notes Cabral. He also cites another key ingredient for the perfect prep — “the squiggle of mayonnaise through the squeeze bottle; it adds a much-needed richness and completes the flavor canon alongside ketchup and mustard.” The Bun
The majority of vendors today tend to buy plain white buns in bulk at stores like Costco, but the original incarnation of the street treat in Mexico utilizes a bolillo soft roll, which is more like a baguette. Buns are not toasted but lined up on the griddle to stay warm and just slightly steamed.
The Meat
The essential component of any hot dog is the link, but for a street dog, you don’t need fancy, just greasy. The salty crunch of the bacon — wrapped around the frank and grilled in unison on a baking tray over a Sterno heat source — elevates the flavors inside and creates a perfect contrast to the sweetness of the toppings and condiments.
“The quality of the links and buns is not meant to be glamorized or studied,” says Cabral. “They are meant to feed you and possibly sober you up when you need it the most for the least possible amount of money. At the same time, you’re supporting our informal economy. The street vendors are surviving out there.”
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