Café Boulud

Café Boulud isn’t exactly what you picture when you think “neighborhood restaurant.” And yet, this (relatively) less expensive version of Daniel has been a staple of the Upper East Side in some form since 1998. It reopened in a new location in 2023, and, just like before, there’s nothing particularly cafe-like about it. In the airy dining room—outfitted with pastel velvet banquettes, white marble, and inoffensive modern art—no one raises their voice above a whisper. You might catch the host’s eye twitch if you show up in a t-shirt.

Plates come down from the left, and there’s a compulsive need to use the crumb sweeper. But without any of the celebratory spirit of Daniel—where strangers toast the next table, and a glimpse of the cheese cart starts a buzz around the room—at Café Boulud, the formalities of prix-fixe fine-dining don’t add up to much. Spending an evening (and at least $100 a pop) here has the languid energy of waiting at a therapist’s office.

You could easily take a nap between courses, and the food, though expertly prepared and elegantly plated, won’t wake you back up. Sure, your paupiette deserves an approving nod, for the clever construction of its tissue paper potatoes, at least. And the dollop of leek fondue beside it is very delicious—but you’ll barely remember it by the time the check comes.

Even after a few years’ hiatus, most diners seem to be longtime regulars, addressing some servers by name, and eyeing an unfamiliar sommelier with suspicion. We can see why people have a soft spot for Café Boulud, especially if their children have been eating corn velouté here since they were in their toddler-sized boat shoes. But there’s no real reason for anyone else to make a night of it.

Food Rundown

Prix-Fixe

At dinner, you’ll choose between a two-course prix fixe ($95), or a three-course one that includes dessert ($125), cherry-picking from four different menus. Everything is basically French, but each menu has a different focus, from French classics to seasonal dishes, to vegetarian ones—plus a menu inspired by other country’s cuisines, like Thailand. At lunch, there's a different, a la carte menu.

photo credit: Neha Talreja

St. Jacques Au Champagne

Some perfectly fine, pan-seared Maine scallops, with a champagne beurre blanc sauce to do the heavy lifting. You will never think about them again.

photo credit: Bill Milne

Bar en Paupiette Sauce Meurette

Things get slightly more interesting with this second course. Slightly. Paper-thin slices of potato are layered to create a tube, filled with some flaky black sea bass, sort of like a dainty fish taquito. It comes with an almost-whipped dollop of leek fondue on the side that would also make a fantastic soup.

Tatin de Mangue

Dessert is the best part. Caramelization makes the mangoes extra sweet, but it’s balanced out by a super tart crème fraîche-lime ice cream.

Madeleines

Mini madeleines, freshly baked, with fluffy insides and crispy edges. Always get the madeleines.