La Piña owner wants to not only served tequila and mezcal, but also share its story

Patrick Todd spent years in the hospitality business, but it was a trip to Mexico in 2016 that really changed his path. After meeting growers and distillers, he dove into the world of agave, tequila and mezcal. Since that initial trip, he’s gone back to visit numerous times to learn all he can about the spirits and the hands-on process behind them.

In May 2023, Todd opened La Piña , 1801 S. Third St., with a focus on agave spirits, mezcal and tequila.

While distillers ensure there is a product for every budget, the Distilled Spirits Council notes the increase in tequila and mezcal has been primarily in high end and “super premium” brands since 2003. Their statistics also show tequila and mezcal drove the industry forward with $866 million in revenue growth in 2022. All of that dovetails with Todd’s experience.

Tequila takes time, and it can’t be made everywhere. In fact, the seven year growth cycle for agave plus the hands-on production process is part of what appeals to Todd.

His Harbor District cocktail bar, located in the former Triskele’s space, takes tequila tasting to new levels with more than 80 tequilas and mezcals on hand. There’s a story behind every sip, and Todd hopes customers will take the time to learn about the artisanal process behind every bottle.

Todd also considers the awareness that the tequila he carries have no added sugars to be part of the growing popularity. When made traditionally, it is also gluten free.

Monthly cocktail classes and guided tastings have increasingly become popular. A class earlier in July brought in staff from Fortaleza , which Todd described as “one of the hottest tequilas in the game right now. ... Think Pappy (van Winkle) . That’s Fortaleza and tequila now.” On Aug. 22, the bar will host Lou Bank and Sacred Agave for its next mezcal class.

Todd spoke to us just before National Tequila Day, which is July 24.

How a trip to Mexico changed his career path

I have been in hospitality since 2008. In one of my previous roles, I was director of operations for Surg restaurant group. I managed multiple menus. While in that position I went to Mexico when a cocktail brand brought us down. They showed us the whole process, every step. Something clicked for me. It was amazing how many hands are involved, the lack of mechanicals or automation. It is still very artisanal. It is something that means so much to the culture. Then I just went down a rabbit hole and on my own dime. I continued to go back to Mexico and learn on my own. That first trip was in 2016.

About 90 percent (of tequila) comes from the state of Jalisco, Mexico. I’d go to Guadalajara and from there you head east to Arandas or west to a town called Tequila. Guadalajara is the hub of it all ... and that’s where all but one of my trips have been. ...

Another popular category of agave spirit is mezcal, and a lot of that comes from Oaxaca, which is south. Where it is made matters.

There are a couple certifications you can get, but not really anything sanctioned or a system that the masses use, like a WSET or a sommelier. I have two or three certifications from a couple distilleries. I’m certified in tequila from the regulating body, CRT (Consejo Regulador Del Tequila). They monitor and approve everything. You’ll see the stamp on every bottle of tequila. I went through their course. It just says I am certified in tequila, but it is probably one of the biggest educating tools right now.

All tequila is mezcal, but not all mezcal is tequila

Mezcal is a broader term. It can use seven species of agave. Tequila can only use one (the Blue Weber agave). The biggest thing is you’ll notice a very different taste profile. There are only certain states that can make it, and there are some sub rules, plus the production method.

Why he built this bar around tequila, mezcal and agave

I love the flavor, and what it can do in a cocktail or sipping it neat. It goes beyond that. Every bottle in my bar tells a story, whether it is the family or the production methods, the bottle being hand-blown or the label art.

I opened La Piña because when I looked around Milwaukee, I didn’t find the bottles and selection, or when I did, I didn’t find the excitement behind the bar for the beautiful stories about this spirt and how it comes to fruition. The agave plant takes seven years to come to fruition. There’s a lot that goes into it. Also, at my bar, all the tequilas on my back bar are additive-free. There is no flavor added. It is water, yeast, agave. I take a lot of pride in that. We’re going to carry the brands everybody is not talking about that we think you should be talking about.

One reason tequila growing in popularity, even with some higher price tags

Tequila production is very limited. It is not like whiskey. We can make bourbon in any state. Prices (for tequila) will continue to go up because it is finite in how you can produce it. Right now, you’re just grateful it is cheaper than whiskey.

RELATED: As tequilas grow in popularity, another Mexican liquor is appearing in Milwaukee bars

This is his current drink of choice

A margarita and a pour of reposado tequila on the side.

What he wants you to know about La Piña

I love the agave flavor, the minerality, the briny flavor, the citrusy and floral notes. It holds up really well in cocktails. At La Piña we only use fresh ingredients. We make all syrups in house, our juice is fresh daily. We’re a pretty scratch bar, so we have the ability to create flavors and profiles because we create the mixers that go into the cocktails. That allows the balance that most people can’t and frankly are not going to make at home. Our cocktail classes are a great way for people to come in and learn some tools and techniques.

His recommended starter sip

Reposado is really nice. It is a little softer than the blanco. It is a great starting tequila. A couple great ones to start right away are Fortaleza, Tapatio, and the El Bandido Yankee, which is our house tequila.

The bar will probably never have this tool

We do not have a blender. Actually, one of the few bad reviews we got on Google is because we did not have a blended margarita. People are passionate about what they like.

I don’t anticipate we’ll get (a blender) any time soon. Our margaritas are on the rocks. We use orange liqueur, tequila and lime juice. We also use the oils from the peel and the juice. We get a balanced margarita that way. Right now we have strawberry, blueberry, peach, lavender.

Please do ask what’s in the bottle

I think another reason why tequila is so popular right now is because of how it is processed typically. It doesn’t have any extra sugars. ... Our drinks are not super sugary. That is kind of something fun for people who don’t know tequila: there is no added sugar. That’s appealing. The people drinking ranch waters, tequila waters, people in general are more conscious about what they’re putting in their body. We’ll tell you as much as you want to know about every one of the bottles at the bar.

Why his next trip to Mexico might be his best yet

I’m going in the next six weeks to pick a single barrel. I’ll meet with the master distiller and master blender of El Bandido Yankee (Tequila). They’ll bottle the whole barrel just for La Piña. We’ll have the bottles for sale, and it will be in cocktails at the bar.

If you want to try this at home, this is an option

On our website we also have La Piña To Go, an online liquor store. Any bottles you want to purchase, shoot us an email and you can pick up a bottle at the bar. A lot of the brands we have you can’t find in retail.

Why you might pay a premium price for these drinks

The biggest thing is the agave (plants) take seven years to grow. You can’t speed that up. ... I fell in love because of the stories, how many hands have to touch the bottles before it gets to you. It is the planting and maintaining the agave, the distillation process, the water sources, the aging. You can’t automate this.

Fork. Spoon. Life. explores the everyday relationship that local notables have with food. To suggest future personalities to profile, email clewis@journalsentinel.com .

This article originally appeared on Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: La Piña owner wants to not only served tequila and mezcal, but also share its story