Red-Dirt Renaissance

Aaron Huatala

Aaron Hautala saw something in the red dirt of the former mining area of Cuyuna, Minnesota, and its surrounding region. As the then “volunteer president” of the Cuyuna Lakes Mountain Bike Crew, Hautala envisioned a grand expansion of the existing 25 miles of iron-rich trail that could, he believed, become “the renaissance of the whole community.”

As with many new ideas to reinvigorate struggling mining towns, there was some vague disbelief that something like this might work—tactically, logistically, philosophically, and otherwise. How could a small group of committed citizens make a change that would require raising millions of dollars, then develop, publicize, and maintain such a plan? Hautala discovered that the Department of Natural Resources had a plan, but it proposed a 35-year rollout. Hautala asked: How about five?

Simply put, that’s how he came to lead—on a volunteer basis—a $10 million project. The government infused those funds into the bike trail infrastructure and the economic development to support it. It took seven years, but he says never lost sight of his vision, which was to make the Cuyuna area an “epic village” with world-class bike trails—including an ecosystem of businesses, restaurants, and other diversions that would keep tourists engaged.

In a twist no one planned for, COVID-19 created a proving ground for his big bet. Annual visitors to the single-direction bike trails went from 35,000 to 118,000. Then Hautala and others launched the area’s website, Cuyuna.com , to help visitors plan for the sights, sounds, thrills, and chills. And he’s not done yet: He has plans for publicizing the accessible waterways, plus other development in the region.

I had only the vaguest bullet-point-level information about Cuyuna’s backstory when I took a summer long-weekend trip there with my family. I’m not commonly described as “outdoorsy,” and this trip to a rural bike destination with my husband and our three kids—two of whom love riding bikes and one of whom had decisively never really pushed a pedal—was decidedly a full Midwest-definition “interesting” sort of trip concept.

Nice surprise No. 1: From the Twin Cities, the Cuyuna Lakes region—which encompasses the cities of Crosby, Cuyuna, Deerwood, Emily, Ironton, Riverton, and Trommalds a quick road trip—two to three hours and you’re there, man. It’s enough time to play a tight selection of road trip tunes and consume tasty gas-station snacks, but not so long you’re in the car more than you’re at your scenic weekend destination.

And Cuyuna delivers on scenery: Its 70 free-admission, famously rusty-red miles of singletrack are lined with pines, giving way periodically to panoramic vistas featuring brilliant lakes and endless sky. It’s also a year-round destination. Think snowshoeing, Nordic skiing, or snowy fat biking. Imagine following that up

Visitors don’t have to be training for the Tour de France to show up on the red dirt trails, though the surroundings may inspire them to step it up a little. Cuyuna is a biking destination precisely because it manages to thrill riders of all skill levels: My husband, an experienced cyclist, encountered trails he found too daunting—excellent for a return-trip challenge—while also spotting what appeared to be a grandchild pulling his grandmother on a tandem bike, laughing all the while. Our elementary-age kids happily pedaled along a good distance. There are also paved and gravel trails if the “mountains” aren’t your thing. Visitors can trot out their fanciest gear or show up empty-handed. Outfitters rent out the bike and safety equipment necessary to get up on two wheels without buying the bike rack.

But another brilliant thing about Cuyuna is that it doesn’t have to be all bikes, all the time. We played on the pirate-ship playground at Crosby Memorial Park, visited the Sea Serpent, and were serendipitously thrilled by wild boat races. We browsed the shops, finding souvenirs and envisioning a parallel life we could have lived, the way you do when you’re away.

It almost felt too good to be true, if I’m being honest. Rural but not rustic. Friendly but true to itself. Expert but not exclusive. Family-friendly for us, but romantic for the couple at the bar, and celebratory for the friends weekend away. Flexible and low-pressure.

I mention this sweet spot of travel joy—this ability to pick and choose and have everyone come away feeling like they got a vacation—to Hautala. “That ‘something for everyone’ wasn’t by chance; it was by purpose,” he says. It worked. We’ll be back.

Aaron Hautala’s Day Trip to Cuyuna Adventure Town USA

We asked the man behind the vision to give us his one-day, 10/10 greatest-hits collection. Here it is, with annotations.

Get your morning donuts at Mac Daddy’s Donut Garage in Ironton . Hautala recommends the bacon-infused donut paired with a latte from The Hudson , which is down the block.

Cycle anywhere from a half-mile up to 8 miles of the red dirt adaptive trails in the Sagamore Unit of the Cuyuna Country State Recreation Area near Riverton. Hautala says the trails are “wide, flowy, fun ribbons of red.” If you don’t have a bike, rent one from Cykel in Ironton . Pro tip: Cykel offers both traditional and pedal-assist eMountain bicycles.

For lunch, stop in Croft Kitchen and Bar in Crosby , which offers up solid burgers and salads.

In the afternoon, get a half-day clear-bottom kayak rental from Cuyuna Outfitters in Crosby. The outfitters drop a kayak at the Miner’s Mountain Rally Center in Ironton so paddlers can follow the Pennington, Mahnomen, Huntington-Feigh Paddle and Portage route. After paddling under the cycling/pedestrian bridge separating Pennington and Mahnomen Mine lakes, kayakers float atop Mahnomen Mine Lake, the deepest inland lake in Minnesota at a staggering 525 feet deep. The total route takes up to two hours and features a five-minute portage. “We call it the Baby Boundary Waters. You’ll call it amazing. Aquifer of the gods, it is,” Hautala says.

Visit High Wheel Confectionary and Coffee House in Ironton for a post-paddle energy boost. Hautala’s insider’s secret: “The popcorn is out of this world, and the blue Lotus energy drink is legit.”

Shop before dinner at Victual . The ice cream is crafted in-house, and we quickly—and quietly!—devoured it. Then we snapped a photo in front of the nearby Adam Turman mural. Shop Common Ground for clothing and home goods, and stop in Cuyuna Outfitters for outdoor clothing and camping gear.

For dinner, choose your own culinary adventure— Trailside Tavern for burgers and tacos, or Drunken Noodle for Thai cuisine.

If you really have to jet, make Cuyuna Brewing Company your last stop. Hautala says you’ll need two growlers: Fill one with Silver Dollar Lager and one with the Ranger Strong.

Cuyuna.com

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