Michael Gardner, a 33-year-old American ski alpinist, tragically passed away while climbing Mount Kumbhakarna, also known as Jannu, in Nepal. Gardner, who was attempting to summit the 7,710-meter peak, was reported missing by the District Police Office in Taplejung. Police Inspector and Information Officer Bibek Basnet confirmed that Gardner had arrived in Nepal for the climb through Grand Himalaya Treks and Expeditions Pvt. Ltd.
On October 6, Gardner began his ascent from Ghunsha towards the base camp. Basnet stated that he disappeared on October 9, following a gust of wind during the climb. Search efforts are currently underway, with police mobilized from Ghunsa, but his body has not yet been located.
A second-generation mountaineer from Idaho, Gardner identified as a climber and skier but was most passionate about skateboarding. Arc’teryx, a Canadian outdoor apparel company, shared the news of his passing on social media, expressing their deep sadness. They reported that Gardner was climbing with his longtime partner, Sam Hennessey, who is safe.
Arc’teryx described Gardner as a proud second-generation Exum Guide, born in Ridgway, Colorado. His passion for climbing was shaped by his childhood experiences with his father, who tragically died in a climbing accident when Gardner was 16. This loss profoundly influenced his perspective on the mountains.
Remembered as a friendly and curious individual, Gardner was known for his engaging personality and love for sharing knowledge. He excelled in various outdoor pursuits, including skateboarding, skiing, climbing, and mountain guiding, and refused to be limited by labels. Arc’teryx noted his ability to navigate rock walls and mountain peaks with incredible speed alongside trusted partners.
While it would take extensive space to detail Gardner’s many accomplishments, Arc’teryx emphasized that his character and impact on the climbing community would resonate deeply. They described him as humble and without ego, highlighting his genuine passion for sharing experiences with others.
“Mike was an optimist who lived a big, bold life. A life we were honored to witness and be a part of,” said Arc’teryx. “His legacy will be everlasting through the souls he touched and the limits he refused to acknowledge. We send our love and support to Mike’s friends, family, and loved ones.”
Mount Kumbhakarna (also known as Jannu) ranks as the 32nd-highest mountain in the world. It is a prominent western extension of Kangchenjunga, the third-highest peak globally. Kumbhakarna stands out for its steep, formidable slopes, offering a variety of extremely challenging climbing routes.
Though the official name of the mountain is Kumbhakarna, it is more commonly known as Jannu. In the Limbu language, it is called Phoktanglungma, which means “mountain with shoulders” (with “phoktang” meaning shoulder and “lungma” meaning mountain). This peak holds sacred significance in the Kirant religion.
Kumbhakarna is the tallest peak in the Kumbhakarna section of the Kangchenjunga Himal range, which stretches along the Nepal-Sikkim border. However, the mountain itself lies entirely within Nepal. A long ridge connects Kumbhakarna to Kangchenjunga in the east.
While Kumbhakarna ranks as the 32nd-highest mountain (based on a prominence of over 500 meters), it is most renowned for its technical difficulty. Its complex structure, dramatic vertical rise, and steep summit slopes make it one of the most challenging climbs in the world. The north face, in particular, is notorious for its extreme technical difficulty and has been the site of some of the most advanced high-altitude climbing, often sparking controversy.
Kumbhakarna (Jannu) was first surveyed in 1957 by Guido Magnone, with the first serious attempt made by a French team led by Jean Franco in 1959. The mountain was successfully climbed for the first time in 1962 by a French expedition led by Lionel Terray. On April 27, 1962, René Desmaison, Paul Keller, Robert Paragot, and Gyalzen Mitchung Sherpa reached the summit. The following day, Terray himself, along with six others, also summited.
Their route began at the Yamatari Glacier, south of the peak, and followed a path up to the Throne, a hanging glacier below the summit, before continuing along the southeast ridge.
The steep north face, known as the “Wall of Shadows,” was first conquered in 1976 by a Japanese team led by Masatsugu Konishi. The route avoided the upper headwall by joining the east ridge. A previous attempt by a New Zealand team in 1975 succeeded in scaling the face but did not reach the summit. Subsequent notable ascents of the north face include a Dutch team’s climb in 1987, though only one of the three summiteers survived the descent. In 1989, Slovenian climber Tomo Česen claimed a solo ascent of a direct route, though his claim remains disputed.
In 2004, a Russian team led by Alexander Odintsov completed a direct ascent of the north face headwall, using big-wall aid climbing techniques at over 7,500 meters. Their achievement was widely celebrated, earning them the prestigious Piolet d’Or award, though the use of left-behind equipment sparked debate over ethical climbing practices.
On October 12, 2023, American climbers Alan Rousseau, Matt Cornell, and Jackson Marvell summited Kumbhakarna. Their ascent was accomplished without supplemental oxygen, pre-fixed ropes, or support beyond base camp, relying solely on the gear they carried.
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