New Hell’s Kitchen Spot Brings Udon Bliss: Raku Opens on 9th Avenue

Locals can now have a taste of Raku, one of the few Japanese restaurants in New York City to specialize in udon noodles, on 9th Avenue between W51st and W52nd Streets. Its new Hell’s Kitchen location is already open for takeout or delivery and will welcome customers to dine inside later this month.

Udon noodles, made from wheat flour, are more traditional in Japanese cuisine than their very popular counterparts, ramen noodles, explained Jeff Lam, one of the restaurant’s co-owners. They can be served cold or warm, and in thicker (tenobe) or thinner (inaniwa) varieties.

The word “raku” conveys the experience of this comfort food: “It’s a positive word,” said Ann Remstetter, the restaurant’s manager. “It’s like easygoing, or happiness, or comfort.”

Ann’s current favorite order is the zaru udon noodles, “the simplest way to eat it,” cold with a dipping sauce and shiso leaf tempura. Jeff enjoys the niku udon, with beef short-ribs and honeycomb tripe, one of the bestsellers.

Most of the udon broths are fish-based, but there are vegetarian broth options in many cases.

In addition to udon, the menu will feature donburi rice bowls and an extensive list of appetizers including homemade gyoza dumplings and chicken tatsuta-age. The front room will be dedicated to lunchtime grab-and-go selections, including pastries from Raku’s sister business, the French-Japanese bakery Pâtisserie Fouet.

They’re planning to offer an extensive saké selection, along with a highball machine that mixes Japanese whiskey with carbonated water.

Head chef Norihiro Ishizuka, born and raised in Japan, began cooking at 13, and opened his first restaurant in Tokyo in his 20s. His first NYC establishment was a hole-in-the-wall sushi restaurant called Kura, which opened in 2013 and closed last year.

He opened Raku in 2016, to fill the “void in udon noodles in New York,” Jeff said. New Yorkers have been enjoying his udon ever since in the East Village and SoHo, as well as in Toronto, Canada, where Jeff is from.

“We chose Hell’s Kitchen, because we feel like a lot of people that live up here haven’t experienced Raku downtown,” Jeff said, “so we’re excited to bring udon to the residents and people around here.”

Two weekends ago, Ann stood on the street at the 9th Avenue International Food Festival, with a sample menu for Raku.

“Everybody is excited for us, and we’re so happy that people are super nice around here,” she said.

Many residents mentioned to her that Raku is in the same location as the former Renaissance Diner, a beloved neighborhood staple that closed in March 2016.

Ann, who is half-Japanese and grew up in Kyoto, Japan, enjoys sharing Japanese food and culture with customers. She was previously the manager at Kura.

Both she and Jeff regularly visit Japan to keep up with the food scene, which Ann said is even more fast-paced than New York. Many of their ingredients, including rice and bonito flakes, are sourced directly from the country.

The interior and exterior of Raku are minimalist by design, so much so that you might just miss it when walking down the street. There’s intentionally no sign outside the door — the same as at the other locations and at Kura — and the windows are covered, creating a mysterious, hidden, and private feel.

The goal is “to keep the focus on the food itself, and not really on other things that catch your eye,” Ann explained. But don’t let the exterior fool you — the restaurant is welcoming, family-friendly, accepts walk-ins and Jeff is “excited to serve the Hell’s Kitchen community.”

Raku is at 776 9th Avenue (between W51st and W52nd Streets). Their website for orders is www.rakunyc.com and you can follow on Instagram at @rakunyc

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