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Cuisine Noir
Chef Not Cook Series Captures the Legacy of Culinary Artists Through Photos
By Nicholas B. Carr,
2024-06-11
New York-based photographer and storyteller Brendan Miller is unveiling his newest photo series , Chef not Cook: The Process to Plate , capturing the stories of eight prominent African American chefs leading the charge in the industry.
“It’s very focused on the contemporary movement,” says the photojournalist. “But it’s historically framed in thinking about how, for generations, there was all this talent that shaped not only American culinary trajectory and history but really just all over the world.”
This powerful series, nominated this year for a James Beard Award in photography, depicts Black culinary artists thriving in their element, underscoring the significant impact of Black chefs on the food world and the legacy of those who came before them.
Marriage of Passions
“This project is sort of a marriage of my two passions of food and photography,” says the New York native on creating the photo series.
Miller’s passion for photography began at an early age documenting vacations with his family. “I’ve been taking pictures my entire life. My parents had like a small Fuji film camera that I remember we used to take with us on trips,” he shares.
“As I began to travel as I got older, I really fell in love with taking pictures of sights and sounds, but I never really framed it with this thought of like the professional nature of photography.”
Pictured: Chefs Charlie Mitchell and Max Guillaume take a break in front of a 1965 Ford F-100 outside of Clover Hill in Brooklyn Heights, NY | Photo credit: Brendan Miller
It was not until 2020 that he began taking his craft more seriously and envisioning a possible career in it. “During the pandemic, a lot of people had a lot of time to sit around. And I was looking at all my catalogs and pictures and I said, ‘Wow, I’m really passionate about this.’ And I started taking classes.”
He continues, “As I was kind of going into that journey, I really started to think more about the stories behind the people I was photographing,” he explains. “When I started sharing that intentionally with people, that’s really when I started calling myself a photographer.”
His passion and appreciation for food also started early on, inspired by his parents’ love of cooking and hospitality. “My other passion was always food,” he begins. “Food was always the social context of my life.”
My mom is from the Caribbean and my dad is from the South. My mom coming from Trinidad, in that culture, whenever somebody comes over, you always feed them—It’s a sign of respect, hospitality, and love.”
Growing up, Miller would observe his parents sourcing fresh ingredients and the way that they would warmly open their home to host people for dinner, and he felt inspired by it.
“What I saw was that food had this quality of unification, and when you put a lot of thought and care into the food that you provide, it’s reflected in how people feel when they eat it. And that really touched my heart. And it caused me to have a real love of not just eating, but also thinking about the story behind what I’m eating.”
A Culinary Renaissance
Miller shares the inspiration behind his photo series, reflecting on his experiences attending various pop-ups and residencies of Black chefs in New York City and witnessing their contributions to the culinary world being recognized.
Pictured: Chef Lana Lagomarsini holds a tray of ribeye steaks during a private chef residency in East Hampton, NY | Photo credit: Brendan Miller
“There is a class of people, a class of young Black folks and people of color, that are really redefining what is fine dining, and they’re being recognized for it, which is a big difference than in the past,” he explains.
“The way I framed it was like, ‘This is a renaissance.’ Like we had the Harlem Renaissance, this is a culinary renaissance. And it’s ironic, it’s 100 years after the Harlem Renaissance. And while that renaissance was very focused on literature, and music, and art, this renaissance is really defined by culinary art.”
Inspired by the talented Black chefs he saw setting the bar in the industry and driven by the desire to understand the stories behind their achievements, Miller set out to create the Chef not Cook photo series.
“I really wanted to go to places that spoke to chefs. Whether it was their home, their garden, a childhood food establishment that impacted their view, or a family restaurant to understand not just the final product of them plating the food and going through service but also the inspiration and journey to get there.”
Pictured: Chef Camari Mick inspects a breadfruit at Labay Market in Brooklyn, NY | Photo credit: Brendan Miller
“And that’s why I call it ‘the process to plate’ because what is the process creatively that somebody takes or that they go through that inspires them to produce this art.”
Chef Not Cook
Miller talks about the significance behind naming the project Chef not Cook, and what he hopes people will take away from it. “The title of chef is so important in the kitchen. It’s a sign of respect. It’s a sign of acknowledgment. And to think that that’s the title that has escaped Black folks for so long really reflects the historical marginalization.”
The name is an acknowledgment of how, in the past, Black chefs were not given the respect and recognition they deserved, being relegated to the title of cook instead of chef. Through this project, Miller demands that you address them by the title they earned and respect the work and artistry that went into it.
Pictured: Chef Kuukua Yomekpe of Asempe Kitchen prepares emomi in Ithaca, NY | Photo credit: Brendan Miller
“These are chefs. They’re not cooks. Call them such, acknowledge them as such because they’ve earned the right to be called that. They’ve honed their skills and their talents, and they’re producing at an industry-leading level, so put some respect on their name.”
On what he wants people to take away from the series, he shares, “I want for them to be inspired and motivated by these chefs who, most, came from very humble beginnings. And through their dreams, determination, and grit, were able to rise to this level of recognition.”
“It’s an underdog story. It’s a story of historical disenfranchisement and long-overdue recognition. And I want folks to understand that and feel that when they see the images and hear the stories that I have to share.”
While in London earlier this month as a James Beard photography nominee, Chef not Cook: The Process to Plate was on exhibit at the Mall Galleries from June 5 – 9.
The Chef not Cook series is currently on display at the Photoville exhibit in South Street Seaport, New York City, through June 16.
For more information on Brendan Miller and to keep up with his career, you can follow his Instagram @ fotodiaspora .
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