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The Infatuation
Jean-Georges
By Bryan Kim,
5 days ago
Bryan Kim
When it comes to NYC fine dining, there are only a few of the old guard left. Daniel is a classic foie-and-petit-fours experience, Le Bernardin is for seafood lovers, and Per Se is ideal for anyone who’s afraid of being overstimulated.
So where does that leave Jean-Georges? The answer is: somewhere in the middle.
Open since 1997, Jean-Georges knows its shtick—French technique, scattered Asian ingredients—and executes it at a predictably high level. For thrill-seeking food nerds, there are more exciting places to eat nowadays, but if you’re determined to spend $1,000 on a dinner for two, the luxe ingredients and creative attempts to revive a stale genre are enough to guarantee a very smooth ride.
Given the choice between their 10-course tasting for $398 or their six-course offering for $298, take the latter every time. It comes with most of the highlights—like a tart pinwheel of strawberries and madai, and a couple of prawn dumplings in anise-scented lemongrass broth—while avoiding the questionable (and oversalted) dishes. Espresso with white asparagus is a choice, but maybe not the correct one.
There will be caviar, there may be foie gras, and the wine will be absolutely delicious. Toss in a tasteful room with beige loveseats and an avant garde chandelier spread out like an octopus, and you have the makings of a very pleasant anniversary dinner. You'll find more exhilarating food downtown (or a few blocks north ), but if you need to experience the rush of dropping a fortune on a meal that involves the choreographed pouring of a rhubarb beurre blanc, Jean-Georges is still a convincing option.
Food Rundown
Menu Options
Dinner costs $398 for 10 courses, or $298 for six. Below, you'll find some examples of dishes you might be served with either tasting. (For vegetarians, there's also a six-course option that costs $218.)
photo credit: Bryan Kim
Madai Sashimi
In its third decade, Jean-Georges isn't afraid to get frisky. This dish— with its cherry blossom, Koyo strawberries, and strips of raw madai—packs a ton of sweet, vinegary flavor. It's fun and interesting, although the fish does get a little lost.
photo credit: Bryan Kim
Hudson Valley Foie Gras
Foie gras and lychee are, you guessed it, wonderful together. The olive-flavored powder on the side provides a little extra pizzazz.
photo credit: Bryan Kim
Yellowfin Tuna Ribbons
As our sever pointed out, this dish is a Jean-Georges classic. It should be retired. The thick strands of tuna are fantastic, but the avocado mush and overly salty soy marinade with chili oil are a real chore to get through.
photo credit: Bryan Kim
Prawn Dumplings
Simple, perfect. The dumplings are stuffed with fresh, crisp peas and meaty chunks of prawn, and they come in a delicate broth flavored with lemongrass and just a hint of Pernod.
photo credit: Bryan Kim
Elysian Fields Lamb
The lamb itself? Perfectly cooked. Everything else on the plate? Extremely confusing. Why just one skinny carrot? And what's with the tiny pile of shaved carrots? Should the brown substance taste like barbecue sauce? Is Jean-Georges contractually obligated to use a truckload of salt per evening?
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