Did you know that the Kingdom of Bhutan is known as the Land of the Thunder Dragon?
According to legend, Tsangpa Gyarey, ancestor of Bhutan’s founding father Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, planned to establish a spiritual center. He saw nine dragons flying that triggered a clap of thunder when he approached them. Taking this as a good omen, he named the center Druk or thunder dragon. His spiritual tradition became known as Drukpa. Drukpa-kagyu is a form of Vajrayana Buddhism practiced widely in Bhutan.
Bhutan lived in isolation for decades until King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck (reigned 1952-1972), decided to open its doors. Establishing Bhutan’s air services was a major goal of his. Sadly, he didn’t live to see this happen. However, the goal was realized during the reign of his son, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck (reigned 1972-2006). On Feb. 11, 1983, Drukair, Bhutan’s national airlines, made its first flight from Paro Airport to India’s Calcutta (now Kolkata) International Airport.
Forty years later, on Dec. 8, 2023, my husband and I boarded a Drukair flight in Kolkata bound for Paro International Airport, one of the most challenging in the world. It is located in a narrow winding valley between 18,000-foot mountain peaks that pilots maneuver at a steep 45-degree angle into the short runway.
Our first glimpse of Bhutan was perfect — scenic landscape, colorful prayer flags, distinctive Bhutanese-style architecture. We inhaled pristine air. Peace and serenity engulfed us. It was an indescribable feeling — almost spiritual. Our guide Suraj and driver Passong welcomed us with “khatas” (white scarves) they placed around our necks to convey well wishes and respect.
Traffic was sparse and yes, it’s true, there are no traffic lights in Bhutan! Tongue-in-cheek signs — “Driving Faster Causes Disaster,” “For Safe Arriving No Liquor in Driving,” “Be Gentle on My Curves,” and “Life is Short Don’t Make It Shorter” — are common.
Colorful prayer flags fluttered everywhere. It’s believed that the mantras on the flags are carried by the wind, spreading goodwill and spirituality. Bhutan’s architectural style with intricate woodwork around roofs and windows and colorful artwork is reflective of its ancient fortresses or dzongs. We enjoyed visiting the Punakha Dzong, National Memorial Chorten, Chimi Lhakhang (Fertility Temple), Buddha Dordenma (169-foot tall Buddha statue), Punakha suspension bridge and more.
We stopped at a local field to watch archery, Bhutan’s national sport. I saw my first takin, Bhutan’s national animal, at the Motihang Takin Preserve. Takins are hoofed mammals native to the eastern Himalayans. We sampled: ema datshi — stew of chilies, yak cheese, onions, garlic, tomatoes; ezay — a spicy chili condiment; sikkam paa — air-dried pork; khur-le — buckwheat pancakes; and suja — butter tea.
We attended the Druk Wangyal Festival on Dec. 13, held in the Dochula Pass (elevation 10,171 feet), home to the Druk Wangyal Lhakhang, a memorial commemorating 100 years of monarchy and the 108 stupas. The stupas honor Bhutanese troops who died in 2003 battling Indian militants camping in Bhutanese territory. The annual open-air festival was attended by hundreds of locals to commemorate the event. The drama and enactments performed by the Bhutan Royal Army were mesmerizing. As we exited the festival, we passed the Queen Mother and the king’s sister who smiled graciously at us.
I did several hikes, but the hike to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery was the one I most anticipated. The monastery, perched on a cliff at 10,240 feet, about 3,000 feet above the Paro Valley, is one of the most iconic and holiest sites in Bhutan. According to legend, Guru Rinpoche, who brought Buddhism to Bhutan, flew there in the eighth century on the back of a tigress. The hike’s route runs through forests, over rocks, up, down and up again numerous narrow steep steps to reach the monastery. The monastery was incredible and the panoramic view of the Paro Valley breathtaking.
Bhutan is a country with a unique culture and amazing natural beauty operating with a blend of old-school methods and modern conveniences. We experienced hospitality way beyond the norm, including our guide Suraj personally preparing ezay, the eyewatering chili condiment, for me! The spiritual feeling we felt on landing in Bhutan stayed with us throughout our trip. We departed knowing we would never forget our visit, and especially how we felt.
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