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  • Florida Weekly - Fort Myers Edition

    Lee County island hopping

    By Staff,

    2024-04-10
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    Passengers disembark Captiva Cruises’ Lady Chadwick on a recent trip to Useppa. RANDY KAMBIC / FLORIDA WEEKLY

    Sparkling sandy beaches, lush landscapes, Old Florida architecture and world-class fishing all lie just offshore in Lee County. The barrier islands offer a tropical escape right in Pine Island Sound. If mainland residents and tourists are looking for a break from the hustle and bustle, they can take a taxi to get away. By taxi, we mean water taxis.

    Many boat operators crisscross the Gulf on a regular and special basis. Whether it’s for a meal, sightseeing or a vacation, these small, pristine spots are returning as major area attractions after Hurricane Ian. The water taxis can also stay offshore for dedicated wildlife viewing, sunset cruises, parties and more.

    Huge Minnesota Twins fans, Chris and Jo Atchison, of Springfield, Illinois, stay in Southwest Florida for a week each March to catch a few spring training games. They also make sure to go to Cabbage Key, this time on Captiva Cruises’ Lady Chadwick.

    Listed on the National Park Service’s National Register of Historic Places, Cabbage Key is a draw for its tropical landscaping, quaint inn, rental cottages and quirky restaurant. One of the cottages, The Dollhouse, was originally built as a playhouse for the young daughters of the Rinehart family that first developed this slice of paradise in the 1930s.

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    Brian Woodstock, a captain with Island Girl Charters, welcomes passengers before a recent trip to Cabbage Key and North Captiva. RANDY KAMBIC / FLORIDA WEEKLY

    “We love the atmosphere,” said Jo while Chris added, “The brews, food and the tower” is what lures him, also citing the working water tower that affords one of the highest viewing points in our entire area.

    The legendary dollar bill bar and restaurant is also a big draw. Decorated dollar bills line the walls. It is also part of Florida legend.

    “We want to see where we heard that Jimmy Buffett wrote ‘Cheeseburger in Paradise!’” said Tina Monachino of Rochester, New York. She explored the island with her sister Mary Jo DiNoto.

    Nearby and of approximately equal size (both being only about 100 acres), yet with a quieter, more serene atmosphere, is Useppa. Abundant flora, including orchids, hibiscus, many types of palm trees and also a huge banyan tree donated by Thomas Edison, mark both sides of the short, paved walking path to the regal Collier Inn. While there, make sure to check out the memorabilia on the walls harkening to when Barron G. Collier owned the island and it was a destination for the likes of the Vanderbilts, Rockefellers and Rothschilds.

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    One of several bottlenose dolphins that the Thompson family from suburban Toronto recently saw in Pine Island Sound via Emmy Girl Charters. PAULA THOMPSON / COURTESY PHOTO

    A few steps away is the Barbara L. Sumwalt Museum showcasing Useppa’s fascinating past including being a Calusa Indian stronghold; a haven for Union sympathizers during the Civil War as cited in several books of the “Honor” series by Pine Island-based historical fiction author Robert Macomber; used by the U.S. government as a base for Cuban exiles before the ill-fated 1961 Bay of Pigs invasion; and much more.

    With “so many beautiful plants and flowers,” the island is an ideal setting for Lynn Fisher to experiment with light and shadow photography. Her husband Clark particularly admires “the design and architecture of the buildings. It’s Old Florida.” The couple recently visited the island for the sixth time during their seasonal four-month stay in Estero from Ocean City, Maryland.

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    Capt. Emily LoCicero of Emmy Girl Charters tells Stephanie and Taylor Doyle and their sons Max and Leo about some of the wildlife they should expect to see before a recent sightseeing trip in Pine Island Sound. RANDY KAMBIC / FLORIDA WEEKLY

    Tony Boca Grande, on Gasparilla Island, features the historic Gasparilla Inn, Boca Grande lighthouse, a picturesque bicycle path and chic stores and restaurants. It’s also a longtime hub for sport fishing, especially tarpon. Most boat operators can provide private runs to the island.

    Island Girl Charters ( www.islandcharters.com ) offers regular daily trips to North Captiva and Cabbage Key and special service to and from Boca Grande, Captiva and Useppa. Customizable, private, nature and sightseeing trips for small groups are also provided, all out of Safe Harbor Marina (formerly Pineland Marina), Pine Island.

    Regular trips to Useppa, Boca Grande, Cabbage Key and Pine Island plus dolphin and shelling cruises are provided by Captiva Cruises ( www.captivacruises.com ) from McCarthy’s Marina on Captiva Island.

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    A huge banyan tree that was donated by Thomas Edison spans the paved walking path on Useppa island. RANDY KAMBIC / FLORIDA WEEKLY

    Most of the facilities including the docks at Cayo Costa State Park on Cayo Costa were destroyed by Hurricane Ian with reconstruction expected to be concluded by this summer or the end of the year. “It’s the most amazing barrier island in Florida … the forests, sand dunes, gorgeous shoreline and even campsites near the water,” said Vince Tapager, owner of Tropic Star of Pine Island ( www.tropicstaradventures.com ), which also utilizes Safe Harbor Marina and is one of several operators that normally provide access to this pristine getaway spot.

    Capt. Emily LoCicero, who founded Island Girl Charters, has operated Emmy Girl Charters ( www.emmygirlcharters.com ) from Four Winds Marina in Bokeelia, Pine Island, since 2014. Before Hurricane Ian, she estimated approximately 40% of her passengers were weekly and longer renters on North Captiva.

    “I’d often have eight to 10 such trips on Saturdays (during busy season), a major changeover day. Now, far fewer. Accommodations are slowly returning.” Interest in trips to the Island Club and Mango’s Café and Grill has increased.

    Along with trips to other islands, basic sightseeing, always part of her business, has taken up some of the slack. She took six members of the Thompson family, seasonal area residents from suburban Toronto, out in the Sound for two hours recently. “We saw many birds and learned interesting facts, saw some manatees and our favorite, bottlenose dolphins,” said Paula Thompson. “Emily really engaged with our grandson Leo; we named him ‘Captain Leo.’ We plan on booking with her again next year.”

    Other boat operators in Pine Island Sound include Pine Island Adventure Charters ( www.pineislandadventurecharters.com ), Capt. Cathy Eagle ( www.captaincathy.com ) and Captain Brian on the Water ( www.captainbrianonthewater.com ).

    “We are part of the infrastructure, a gateway to the islands,” cited Island Girl Charters General Manager Jeff Wilson on the interweaving nature of the boats and the islands. “Homeowners, mainland residents, vacationers, law enforcement, workers and others. We serve everyone.” ¦

    The post Lee County island hopping first appeared on Fort Myers Florida Weekly .

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