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Arturo Obegero Men’s Spring 2025: Crazy in Love, Realistic in Business
By Lily Templeton,
2024-06-21
Arturo Obegero 2025 Men's Collection at Paris Fashion Week Courtesy of Arturo Obegero
For his 10th collection and after skipping a season, Arturo Obegero looked back at what set him on the path to becoming a designer.
It turns out his seminal moment had more to do with flamenco than fashion: It’s a 1986 film by prolific Spanish director Carlos Saura titled “El Amor Brujo” (or “Love, the sorcerer” in English) and based on an early 20th-century ballet.
“Saura’s work allowed me to see how you can play with your roots, folklore and traditions and modernize them,” said the Paris-based designer. “It showed me what I could do.”
With mannequins dotted around Silencio des Prés and a short film — entirely shot with iPhones, as part of a sponsorship deal that saw Apple provide Obegero with a range of devices to support his design process — showed models interpreting scenes from the ballet in the cinema downstairs, he’d come full circle.
Obegero pulled out all the stops with this 25-look lineup, using the ballet’s love story to lean into his brand’s gender-blending approach and signatures such as high-waisted matador trousers, tailoring and corsetry as well as high-drama pieces like a lace top with three-dimensional flurries that looked like the motifs were leaping off the skin.
Among the standouts was a jumpsuit that looked like a gown from the back, a dress that transitioned from matte black jersey high-neck top to a black-to-red gradient of sequins, and a sleeveless blazer with an asymmetrical standup collar inspired by a design Obegero created for Beyoncé.
Business-wise, the milestone had Obegero reflecting on the travails of being a young designer in this day and age, particularly post-pandemic.
While he didn’t rule out collaborations with retailers altogether, he intends to pivot toward a more bespoke approach, on the heels of these experiences with the “Cowboy Carter” star or Harry Styles as well as increased demand for custom bridal looks for the upcoming wedding season. Already, his website has been reconfigured to include made-to-order.
“I don’t believe in having stock [or] over-producing,” he said. “If you order it, it’s going to be exclusive and perfectly made for you.”
With the proximity between the men’s and couture weeks this year, the notion that he could slide from one to the next didn’t seem far-fetched.
For more Paris men’s spring 2025 reviews, click here.
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