The Untapped Potential of Next-gen Materials

Early industry players set their sights on creating next-gen leather. In fact, nearly two-thirds (64 percent) of material innovation companies are focused on alternative leathers.

But what about the other animal materials? Per the Material Innovation Initiative, or (MII), the next-gen market share for these fibers is less than 1 percent — meaning material innovators have a substantial opportunity on their hands.

Considering this untapped potential, the MII released “White Space #1: Sub-Categories With Limited Innovation 2024.” This report builds off of the 2021 study on white spaces by looking at the material landscape throughout the value chain through a new lens to “identify unmet and unarticulated needs.” It still focuses on the seven hot spots identified three years ago but “reframed” these gaps in the market with updates on progress, alternative perspectives and external resources. And the first white space being explored is dedicated to the burgeoning industries of next-gen silk, wool, down and fur.

“Our goal is to direct interest, attention and resources to the areas within the next-gen materials industry that hold the most promise,” said Nicole Rawling, cofounder and chief executive officer of MII. “This report is a call to action for the industry to innovate and fill these white spaces for the benefit of accelerating sustainable and ethical material development.”

Silk/Polyester

To start, the MII tackles the addressable market size — the total addressable market, or TAM —representing the entire revenue opportunity existing within the market.

For next-gen silk, the TAM is “significant,” the MII said, with the global silk market being valued at around $20 billion, projected to grow at a CAGR of 8.4 percent, reaching $44.6 billion by 2034, per Future Market Insights. Similarly, the polyester market is growing. Its market size was estimated at $118.5 billion last year and is now expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 7.3 percent from 2024 to 2030, projected to reach $160 billion by 2032, according to Grand View Research.

Silk, while high-performing and versatile, has drawbacks. Although limited impact assessments exist, the MII said, silk is considered one of the most environmentally damaging fibers. A life cycle assessment by textile researcher Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu found that raw silk produced in India has the highest environmental footprint across nearly all reported categories when compared to cotton, nylon or wool. But with advancements in material and fiber sciences, innovators can create alternative fibers that mimic the favorable properties of silk while decreasing the negative ones.

The report highlighted 14 companies at various stages of research and development as well as those already commercially available. These brands include AMSilk, Circ, Kintra, Lenzing, Spiber and Tandem Repeat, among others.

Fur

For fur, the TAM is of particular interest, considering the public is increasingly becoming anti (new) fur. The global production of mink, fox, raccoon dog and other animal fur dropped from 140 million fur animals in 2014 to 42 million, according to the Humane Society. Thus, synthetic furs — despite their various environmental harms — are rising. The faux fur market was valued at $25 billion in 2022 and is expected to expand at a CAGR of 8.8 percent until 2031, according to Transparency Market Research.

While considered both luxurious and practical, fur is rife with issues, with animal welfare and sustainability at the top of the list. Next-gen furs using sustainable inputs and green chemistry, the report said, can end the animal cruelty of fur production and lower environmental impact. For next-gen fur to be successful, however, it has to improve upon the existing material as well as performance attributes while remaining cost-competitive.

The MII stressed the importance of tunability and variety for next-gen fur innovators. Brands are used to the plethora of colors, prints, patterns, textures and lengths offered by animal and synthetic fur; the report believes material innovators must meet this variety and go even further to succeed. The think tank also highlighted finding appropriate manufacturing partners — ideally those with experience in the highly specialized sector.

There are seven companies making next-gen fur, the report said, either as an end product or as a fiber that can be turned into a next-gen fur. Next-gen fur textile companies include BIoFluff, BioFur, DevoHome and Ecopel. Next-gen fur fiber companies include Lenzing, Metsä Spring and Spiber.

Wool/Acrylic

The market size for next-gen wool must consider acrylic and polyester as addressable markets, the MII said, as the technologies used to create these fibers converge. While the acrylic fiber market is estimated at $2.7 billion, it’s expected to drop to $2.4 billion by 2029 — perhaps because of production regulations or the easy accessibility of polyester, per Mordor Intelligence. The global wool market size is expected to grow from $39 billion in 2024 to $49 billion by 2028.

Wool is a versatile fiber. It can be luxurious, such as cashmere, and utilitarian, such as outdoor apparel, as well as insulating and moisture-wicking. But wool is also scratchy and pills easily, demanding high maintenance, not to mention environmental and animal welfare concerns.

To be successful, next-gen wool should, the report said, have a lower environmental impact and no animal cruelty while meeting — or exceeding — the performance attributes of the incumbent. Innovators must consider various applications, easy maintenance and skilled partners to tap into the market’s potential.

The report identified 14 innovators working on next-gen wool or acrylic materials. Ten are fiber producers, while the remaining four are textile producers. Those in R&D include ESG Brands and Botanè, among others. Those commercially available include KD NY, Spinnova and Ettitude.

Down/Polyfill

The MII said the market for next-gen down should consider polyester as well, as the technologies used to create next-gen down and polyester fill are overlapping. The global down and feather market is estimated at $1.7 billion and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6.7 percent, reaching $2.4 billion by 2029, per Mordor data. However, Verified Market Research anticipated that the market could reach $16 billion by 2030. Polyester’s market size, meanwhile, was estimated at $118.5 billion in 2023 and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 7.3 percent from 2024 to 2030, potentially reaching $160 billion by 2032, according to Allied Market Research.

Down — and its synthetic alternative, polyester fill — has a diversity of applications, from bedding and pillows to apparel and jackets. The material provides excellent insulation while remaining lightweight and breathable. Polyfill, on the other hand, is hypoallergenic, affordable and easy to care for. Both, however, contribute to water pollution, habitat destruction and microplastics.

The key targets innovators should hit while creating down alternatives include using biobased inputs that can be recycled or biodegraded at the end of their life, utilizing green chemistry and reducing environmental impact. These innovators should also consider weight, thickness and density to meet any given brand’s demands as well as wear, laundering and care.

The report identified 15 companies revolutionizing down, dividing the start-up innovators from the established corporations. The next-gen down and poly-producer start-ups include Eco Supreme, Mycocycle and Ponda. The established firms include Polartec, PrimaLoft and Thermore. Save the Duck is in a category of its own as a brand with internal material innovation.

“Although we’re seeing more and more companies innovating in the next-gen materials space, some key white spaces remain underserved,” Thomasine Dolan Dow, the director of material innovation at MII, said. “The majority of innovators in the industry are focused on next-gen leather alternatives, leaving many opportunities in silk, wool, down and fur untapped. We’re excited to see innovations in these areas expand in the future and hope this report provides critical insights for stakeholders looking to harness the significant opportunities in the next-gen materials industry.”