Mr. Saturday Men’s Spring 2025: Puttin’ on the Blitz

Mr. Saturday is in his New Romantic era.

Brand creative director Joey Gollish has polished up the punk in his ongoing exploration of club subcultures. This season he looked to London’s legendary and fashion-forward Blitz Club, which brought us Boy George, Adam Ant and Spandau Ballet back in the day.

Cue the glamour.

The big shoulders and rougher edge of last season’s collection were softened up with dandy touches such as ruffled collars tucked under bomber jackets.

Gollish connected the dots between his logo, which features seven circles, and a wavy new S logo. That graphic was embroidered on shirts creating an undulating pattern on sheer shirts. Polka dots, a popular print at the time, were also reinterpreted as embroidery on shorts and bombers, adorned the shoulders of T-shirts as floral appliqués, or as a contrasting print on dress shirts and pocket squares. Double-breasted blazers retained structure, while satin coats grazed the floor.

Gollish moved on from pure streetwear some seasons ago, honing his elevated tailoring aesthetic. He’s continued to explore those codes, and delivered a double-breasted blazer with wide shoulder pads, and used blown-up, contemporary newsprint with stories about the Blitz to create a bold graphic.

The line was organized as both sets and separates; for example, a modern take on the suit had both a short or a pant to mix and match. Track sets are a favorite of Gollish, and he gave an update with pinstripes, complete with popped collar.

The brand held the presentation in a hidden annex above the Andy Wahloo cocktail bar, decked out in rail racks where guests were invited to try on looks in between sips.

The designer, who has done double duty as the creative director at Canadian leather goods brand Roots since last year, said that the cocreating and producing relationship has settled into a natural rhythm. He can compartmentalize between the codes of the two houses, while having the production for both brands located in Canada has been a boon for North American buyers. It hits key points of keeping supply chain and production local and traceable, plus allows for quicker turnaround on orders.

The one downside, according to Gollish? Mr. Nightclub himself has had to become a morning person.

For more Paris men’s spring 2025 reviews, click here.