A Brazilian Surfer's Honest Take of Nazaré Crowds, Wipeouts and Rise of Women's Surfing

Nazaré looks way more intimidating from the water. It’s big enough from the vantage point of the cliff, or even higher from a drone. But looks can be misleading at the world's biggest a-frame wedge. From the water, it’s easier to grasp the scale of what’s being accomplished. The energy funneled by the underwater canyon gathers into an intimidating wall. It looks like the cliff on the beach wouldn’t stand a chance, much less the surfer flying down the face.

Filmmer Rennan Chaves captured a stunning water angle of Michelle des Bouillons doing just that in November 2023. Bouillons once believed she’d never surf Nazare. Now, her performances earned her an entry into the 2024 SURFER Big Wave Challenge .

Bouillons is a French-born, Brazilian-raised big-wave surfer and no stranger to Nazaré's power. She’s been towing here for at least seven seasons. These days, she and her partner Ian Cosenza navigate the lineup together, towing each other into bombs.

Bouillons has established herself as one of the best women at the famed Portuguese wave, right behind Justine Dupont and Maya Gabeira. She competed in the 2024 Tudor Nazare Challenge, finishing runner-up to Gabeira in the women’s division. She’s not catching the biggest peaks the place has to offer, but she’s putting in her time in and out of the water, copping the punishment and reaping the rewards like everyone else.

In the video above, filmed and produced by the swell-addicted Tim Bonython, Bouillons candidly explains the connection (and fear) she felt early on with Nazaré, her thoughts on the growing crowds, relives her worst wipeout and shows pride at the rise of women’s surfing at the famed wave.

“The younger girls are sparring, getting inspiration from us,” Bouillons said. “That’s real nice. I think it will grow more and more.”

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