The beaches of Europe’ s holiday hotspots inevitably burst with parasols, loungers and lilos come July and August, and lying in the destruction path of a child’s bucket and spade can quickly ruin the dream of a blissful holiday.
As anti-tourism protests see locals bid to recover beaches from overcrowding in Mallorca and the Canaries , the prospect of bundled-up beach towels less than a metre apart may have you looking for sleepier swathes.
Thankfully, soaring sand dunes, quiet coves and turquoise bays stud Europe’s coastline – especially if you’re willing to wander off the beaten track.
From wild Galician archipelagos to sleepy French communes, there are plenty of secluded shores to lay your towel if you know where to look for them.
Don’t follow the masses booking the same budget flights to the same busy spots. Choose one of these more under-the-radar destinations, where summer sun can come with a side of serenity.
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Alentejo, Portugal
While everyone else rushes to the rammed beaches of the Algarve , head instead to Alentejo , the neighbouring Portuguese region to the north. It’s still bathed in reliable rays, but rather than fight for a sun lounger along packed tourist strips, you’ll enjoy boutique design hotels, tackle epic walking trails and wander its Unesco World Heritage Site city, Evora. Its picturesque coastline is lined with soft beaches, soaring cliffs and cute fishing villages, with the option for exhilarating surfing and dolphin spotting. Throw in hilltop towns with local artisans and ancient ruins – for example, the Roman villa of São Cucufate – and you certainly won’t be missing the resorts of Albufeira .
Paxos, Greece
It’s the ultimate summer holiday fantasy: a Greek island that’s not full to the brim with British tourists. You will need to work a bit harder to find a secret Grecian corner in high season, but not that much harder – Paxos is only an hour onward hydrofoil journey from Corfu , which is connected to the UK by dozens of daily direct flights, taking just over three hours. Your reward for that extra bit of effort? Sleepy beaches and cosy tavernas serving freshly landed fish and feta-topped salads. Hilly walks along chalky cliffs, past olive groves and dives in sparkling coves. In other words, island heaven.
East Coast, Corsica
France’s chic Mediterranean isle is full of buzzy beach bars, cool hotels and billionaire’s yachts bobbing in the surf. But if you want to avoid the glitz – and with it, the masses of French holidaymakers that visit during school holidays – then steer clear of much of the south coast, as well as Bastia and the capital Ajaccio . Instead, make for the underrated, wild east, where long stretches of sand are punctuated by sleepy hamlets. Golden stretches like Tallone, backed by shrubs, come with few facilities, but plenty of laid-back atmosphere.
Bozburun Peninsula, Turkey
Built-up Marmaris might only be an hour away, but you’ll feel lightyears from the package resort vibe on the sleepy Bozburun Peninsula. Peaks carpeted in verdant forest rush down to turquoise bays, and narrow squiggly roads cling to the cliffside; this geography, by virtue of its drama, does the crowd-filtering for you. Private stone-faced holiday villas, overlooking craggy peaks and sea studded with gulet boats – complete with private pools and all the sunshine you could ask for – come at a relative bargain, too.
Aude, France
When it comes to French beaches, “busy” can be a relative term. Provence and the Côte d’Azur are out – prices are sky-high at this time of year, not to mention sardine-tin levels of packed. But Aude, a department to the west of the famous Riviera, remains comparatively quiet. There are beaches, of course- a long rambling stretch along nearly the entire coast, much of it bordered by salt pans. But there are also pretty towns like Bages, Lagrasse and Gruissan, and Unesco-listed fortified city Carcassonne, as well as wild garrigue shrubland and postcard-pretty vineyards.
Cíes Islands, Spain
Exactly how determined are you to get off the beaten track? On this wild Galician archipelago, just a 40-minute ferry from the mainland, there are no hotels. Instead, if you want to fully experience its virgin beaches, Listerine-blue bays and truly tranquil vibe – visitors are capped at just 1,800 per day – you will have to be prepared to check into the only campsite (thankfully, pre-pitched tents are available). But in turn, you’ll get to wake to a near-deserted landscape, with bracing sunrise snorkels in the cool waters and sightings of protected seabirds. Ferries leave from Vigo or Cangas on the country’s northwest coast.
Costa Verde, Sardinia
With beaches this jaw-dropping, it’s a wonder that the Costa Verde, on Sardinia ’s western fringe, isn’t busier. Soaring sand dunes – desert-like in height and with a rambling approach to the sea – are backed by forest dotted with farmhouses and old mines, and there’s hardly a mega-resort in sight. Lively winds mean great surf, while the west-facing orientation guarantees unforgettable sunsets. It feels a bit like the end of the world here until you hit dinner time. Once warmly welcomed into a rustic agriturismo (farm stay), to feast on juicy suckling pig ( su porcheddu ), you’ll quickly feel right at home.
Read more: Best hotels in Europe: Where to stay for a city, beach or retreat break
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