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The Infatuation
Peter Luger Steak House
By Willa Moore,
23 days ago
Noah Devereaux
After over 130 years of existence, Peter Luger has its critics and its apologists (not to mention its branches in Great Neck and Las Vegas). The thing is, if you come to Peter Luger expecting anything other than big, perfectly pink steaks, impeccable creamed spinach, and wedge salads with a bacon-to-lettuce ratio of one-to-one, you're doing it wrong. It’s a steakhouse after all. Don’t overthink it, and you'll have a great time here.
Luger’s four wood-paneled rooms are filled with 50% tourists, 50% dedicated regulars—often large families celebrating birthdays, or groups of men who come here every Friday evening, each possess a Peter Luger Card (so they don't have to pay in cash or debit), and who don't need a menu to know exactly what they want. The order is already sorted. It has been for generations.
Emily Schindler
That order revolves around steak, obviously. Things like the 1:1 wedge and the German fried potatoes—plus a martini, or a fat glass of wine—are worthy additions. But red meat is royalty. It arrives at your table in a pool of butter, on a plate so hot that when your server touches a few thick slices to the side before placing them on your plate, they give off a very satisfying sizzle.
There's a science to this—you can't achieve a steak with such a hard crust and soft interior without it. Each server wears a buzzer on their belt, which alerts them when they need to pick a steak up from the kitchen. As one server said, “If I'm not there in 20 seconds, I may as well go home.” He did not crack a smile.
There are a few things you should know going in. The signature steak sauce tastes like doctored-up cocktail sauce, and that's just how it is. True regulars always order the plate of raw sliced tomatoes and onions, though no one really finishes it. And finally, your server is not going to hold your hand and whisper sweet nothings about seasonal ingredients in your ear, because there are none. But they will deliver you a sizzling steak with the speed of someone whose life depends on it, every single time.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Porterhouse Steak
A seasoned Peter Luger enthusiast once gave us some sage advice: always order the porterhouse for one less than your party size. Party of four? Steak for three. Party of three? Steak for two. And so on and so forth. We've done this every time, and we've always returned home with leftovers in a custom Peter Luger doggy bag—for the people we live with, who are jealous they didn't get the invite. They also do a slightly fattier rib steak for one or two, but the porterhouse is the classic order.
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Luger-Burger
The burger is only served at lunch, unless you are a child. Then you can have it at dinner. This could be considered a hack, if you have a friend who looks 12, but ultimately—and we can’t believe we’re saying this—we don’t love the Peter Luger burger. There’s no sinking your teeth into this crumbly burger, and no point seeking it out if you’re here at a special occasion lunch. When you’re at Peter Luger, you’re ordering steak.
photo credit: Willa Moore
Free Bread
A moment for the bread, especially the rolls, which are stuffed with tiny bits of onion and poppy seeds. You’ll receive the bread when you receive your big gravy boat of steak sauce. You can try dipping the bread into the sauce, but we prefer butter.
photo credit: Willa Moore
Iceberg Wedge Salad
You can order a thick, glistening slice of bacon all by itself at Luger, but we prefer ours with a side of iceberg lettuce, tomato, and blue cheese. Less of a wedge, more of a slab, this is the premiere post-bread, pre-steak bite (the Caesar is forgettable by comparison).
photo credit: Willa Moore
Sliced Tomatoes & Onions
Sorry, you have to. We don't make the rules, and we don't know who does. (Regulars chop this up and mix it with an order of that thick-cut bacon.)
Creamed Spinach
Our favorite meatless thing here. It’s really green, yet it’s somehow still exceptionally creamy. Like a creamed spinach that knows it’s the best, and doesn’t have to brag about it.
Luger’s Special German Fried Potatoes
Equal parts soft and crispy, with a heavy dose of onions and an even heavier dose of black pepper. If you’re trying to decide on your potato preparation—there’s also french fries, and a baked potato—these are the clear winner.
photo credit: Emily Schindler
Luger’s Special “Holy Cow” Hot Fudge Sundae
Do you remember when life was simpler, and the highlight of your birthday was a sundae from your local ice cream store? This is that sundae.
Schlag
A pile of whipped cream. Why not? Use it as a dip for the shower of Peter Luger chocolate gold coins your server will bring to your table along with the check.
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