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Stops Along This Coastal Scenic Byway Rival Nantucket, But Without the Crowds
By Meghann Foye,
2 days ago
Every summer, New Englanders and travelers the world over flock to the sandy beach bluffs of Cape Cod , and its satellite islands Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket —and there are crowds to prove it. But many outside Massachusetts may not realize there's another beautiful Cape just north of Boston, and while summer is definitely high season, travelers looking for the same coastal , dare-we-say Nancy Meyer's-esque charm may find it an altogether easier weekend or day trip, but with plenty to explore, stay and do.
Cape Ann, about 40 minutes north of Boston, is made up of four towns including antiques-filled Essex, beachy-coastal Manchester-by-the-Sea, bustling seaport Gloucester and charming, arty Rockport. The Essex Coastal Scenic byway runs through it all, plus 10 more Essex county communities, all hugging the rocky, deep-blue coastline of the North Shore. If you're looking for a breezy, beautiful drive with plenty of ocean views and stops along the way, this is it.
As a born-and-raised Northshore girlie myself, I've grown up going to all the stops on the byway, and recently spent a few weekends catching up on all that's new in Cape Ann. To that end, here are 11 coolest things to see, do and explore in Cape Ann on Essex' Scenic Coastal Byway:
Where Does the Essex Coastal Scenic Byway Start?
The Essex Scenic Coastal Byway kicks off in Lynn, MA in Essex County and links 14 North Shore communities over a 90-mile span. Along the way, you'll pass Marblehead (my hometown) and Beverly, two towns that have a playful rivalry calling themselves the birthplace of the American Navy, as well as Swampscott, Salem, Ipswich, Newbury, Newburyport, Rowley and Salisbury, plus the four on Cape Ann. In addition to being naturally beautiful, the communities along the byway tell a rich part of early American history. Gloucester is America's oldest seaport and also has the oldest operating art colony while Beverly is known as the birthplace of the American Industrial Revolution. All the towns play fascinating and integral parts in the early colonial period and American Revolution.
What—and where—is Cape Ann?
Cape Ann is comprised of four towns—Gloucester, Manchester-By-The-Sea, Rockport and Essex, that all jut out on a Cape off the northern shoreline of Massachusetts. It's about 40 minutes north of Boston on Massachusetts' North Shore in the county of Essex. Two of the towns, Gloucester and Manchester By-The-Sea, can be reached by commuter rail from Boston (about an hour ride.) While the Essex Coastal Scenic Byway runs through it all, and is a beautiful way to see Cape Ann, it's also a quick drive from Boston on highway Route 128.
Best things to do on Cape Ann, Massachusetts
1. Visit Singing Beach
They call this beautiful half-mile beach " Singing Beach " because of the unique squeak of the sand, but it's probably more well-known as one of MA's prettiest, hidden-gem beaches in the lovely fishing-village-turned-Gilded Age hotspot, Manchester-by-the-Sea. While parking is residents' only during the summer months, you can easily arrive by commuter rail, or park in town, and then walk.
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2. Thrift some coastal cool threads
Manchester-by-the-Sea has a very quaint, walkable downtown district, filled with a museum in the historic Abigail Hooper Trask House (learn all about the town's maritime and art history), beachy boutiques and art galleries. One of my favorite hidden gems is Stock Exchange , an upscale consignment shop filled with boho coastal cool brands like Lily Pulitzer, Vineyard Vines and Veronica Beard, plus vintage and unique home finds.
3. Eat a real beef three-way
Fans of the hit show The Bear are familiar with the classic Italian-style roast beef sandwich its shop's named for, but many don't realize Massachusetts has its own famed roast beef sandwich style, too. Owner Chef Matt Marquis opened up Man-by-the-Sea's Jamie's Roast Beef in honor of his late brother, and its famous Beef 3-Way (mayo, BBQ sauce and cheese) has the same chef-touch as the show's premise, with spiced sous-vide beef, James River BBQ sauce and house-made aoli.
Driving just a bit north, you'll find Essex, another smaller, yet equally charming town, bordering the Essex River's tidal estuary, and running over with decades-old antique shops filled with rare and surprising finds. At Howard's Flying Dragon Antiques , you'll find everything from old chess boards to knob and rail pulls to vintage Life magazines. At Andrew Spindler Antiques & Design , there are the types of period furniture and vintage seascape oils. Pick up a gift at the super cute gift at We Dream in Colour .
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5. Try burgundy pie from the farmer's market
Roadside farm stands dot the landscape leading to downtown Essex, and one of my favorites is John's Farm Stand , which has all the usual summer produce, such as juicy heirloom tomatoes, ripe plums and peaches and delicious local honey. Don't forget to say hello to the horses in the field or take home John's signature "Burgundy Pie," a mix of blueberry and raspberries with crumb topping.
6. Brunch on the bay
For a relaxing, fun time, you've got several options right across from one another on Main Street, overlooking the Essex River marshes. At C.K. Pearl , you'll find amazing American fare, and perfect-for-the-summer outside seating. People line up for fried clams, steamers and award-winning chowder at 110-year-old Woodman's . Locally owned cafe, bakery and market Googan's Gallery just opened, and has the best Italian sandwiches, and homemade strawberry Pop Tarts.
To experience Gloucester nightlift, you'll want to book a room and make a reservation at Beauport Hotel Gloucester , a new hotel resort that opened a few years back and has quickly become the hotspot for weddings, bachelorette parties and romantic weekend stays, thanks to it's million-dollar Atlantic Ocean views, gorgeously decorated rooms and kickin' bar terrace and rooftop pool and bar. "Every place claims to have the best lobster roll, but Beauport's 1606 Restaurant really has the best," says Boston PR company In Your Court founder Courtney Dwyer. "I always go hot drawn butter with a side of their fries, which are almost like a combo of a potato trip and traditional french fry."
Beauport Hospitality Group
8. See some art
With galleries dotting Main Street, you'll find lots to explore among Gloucester's art scene, but many don't realize it dates all the way back to the 18th and 19th centuries, with early American artists such as Winslow Homer, Edward Hopper and modern artists including Mark Rothko finding inspiration in its natural beauty and bustling downtown and seaport. While in Gloucester, you'll want to take a tour of Rocky Neck Point art colony , where you can find the work of many plein air painters, sculptors and textile artists, along with a museum and a few excellent restaurants and a raw bar.
9. Try some nationally recognized eats
While you may feel like you're in a remote part of the world, people are starting to waking up to Cape Ann's epic food scene that's bubbled up in recent years. Named one of NY Times ' top 22 pizza restaurants in the U.S., Short & Main Pizza has wood-fired pies and local oysters and the combo might even be better than surf and turf (and get classic Italian cookies at nearby Virgilio's Market). At Tonno , you can get locally sourced Italian fare (Tonno Tartare and a dirty martini is my favorite combo.) At Holy Cow , you'll find better-than Ben & Jerrys' homemade scoops like Salted Butter Cracker Ice Cream and Fruity Pebbles.
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10. Shop til you drop
If you're looking for the quintessential coastal New England town, Rockport is right out of a Hallmark movie, including its many art galleries, summertime ice cream shacks and gift shops galore where you could practically outfit an entire Nancy Myers kitchen. Some of my favorite gallery stops always include The Art Nook , David Arsenault and Rusty and Ingrid Creative Company . A self-guided or in-person walking tour of downtown hub Bearskin Neck is a must—don't miss snapping a photo of iconic red fishing shack called Motif #1.
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11. See a lighthouse (in Rockport, Gloucester)
There's no better sign you've been to the New England coast then a selfie in front of a lighthouse, and there are five historic and beautiful among Gloucester and Rockport. Annisquam Lighthouse (Rudyard Kipling once stayed here) and Easternpoint Lighthouse (Homer painted it) are accessible by land. Thatcher Island, accessible by ferry , has the only twin lighthouses (the only operating ones in the U.S.). Straitsmouth Island Lighthouse marks the entrance of Rockport harbor and North Shore Adventure has guided kayak tours.
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