Pomellato Buys Stone Setting Laboratory

MILAN — Pomellato is further reinforcing its manufacturing capabilities through the acquisition of an established stone setting laboratory based in Valenza, a key jewelry manufacturing hub in Italy.

A First Look at Sean McGirr's Debut Alexander McQueen Campaign

Called Valenza Setting Lab, the company will contribute to strengthen Pomellato ’s production, specifically in the diamond and precious stone setting sector, and to support the international expansion of the Milan-based jewelry house, which is controlled by Kering.

“This acquisition marks a significant step forward in Pomellato’s journey,” said the brand’s chief executive officer Sabina Belli. “The expertise of the VSL team in high-level stone setting will be invaluable in supporting our growth, especially in the thriving diamond and precious stone segment. We are excited about the opportunities that this new step in our development will provide.”

Pomellato will leverage the expertise of the 24 employees of VSL, including founders Marcello Monti and Gilberto Dentelli, along with a team of expert setters who previously worked for Valenza-based company MG Incassatura, which had been a historical partner of Pomellato. Financial details were not disclosed.

The deal follows Pomellato’s acquisition in 2022 of a minority stake in Costanzo & Rizzetto, another Valenza-based goldsmith company.

Through that long-term partnership, the goal of Pomellato was to strengthen its production capacity, and that was the first such deal for the firm. Costanzo & Rizzetto has an expertise in enamel work, applying geometrical or pictorial motifs.

Jewelry is a top-performing category, with uber-luxe pieces driving growth, retaining traction despite price hikes, according to the latest Altagamma — Bain Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study — Spring 2024 study presented in June in Milan.

Yvonne Orji, Georgia Medley Toast Mejuri's New Collection With a Cozy Pub Luncheon

For years Belli has highlighted the craftsmanship of Pomellato and the importance of protecting the Italian goldsmith tradition, in sync with her peers, who have been investing in supporting the country’s supply chain, from Gildo Zegna, chairman and CEO of Zegna, to Patrizio Bertelli, chairman of Prada Group, to name a few.

To this end, in 2018, Pomellato unveiled its partnership with the Galdus Goldsmith Academy, whereby the company supported the school financially, all the while providing experts to teach at the school, structuring seminars and offering apprenticeships to students.

The high-education programs aimed at training the next generation of goldsmiths — spanning three to seven years — secured the support of the Lombardy region and recognizes the students with a certificate as Specialized Craftsmanship Technicians for Manufactured Goldsmith Goods. The latter is recognized not only in Italy but also throughout Europe.

Pomellato was founded by the late Pino Rabolini in 1967, translating the concept of ready-to-wear into jewelry and introducing the idea of pieces chosen by women for themselves.

Kering took control of Pomellato in 2013, further building the brand’s storied collections such as Montenapoleone; Iconica — the first ring introduced by Rabolini; Sabbia; M’Ama Non M’Ama, and Nudo and leveraging its colored gems, sleek designs — cocooning rings, chain bracelets and necklaces in gold or pink gold — and Milanese goldsmith tradition and craftsmanship. Vincenzo Castaldo last year marked his 20th anniversary as creative director of the brand.

Queen Rania of Jordan's Glittering Tiaras: Cartier Diamonds, Vibrant Emeralds and More Historic Jewels From the Royal's Collection