Tamu

They say you can’t be everything to everyone. But Tamu, a sushi spot from the chefs behind Mako and Juno , tries really hard to cover the casual neighborhood dinner, special occasion omakase, and work lunch markets—and mostly succeeds. This West Loop restaurant specializes in hand-rolled temaki, including a roll-it-yourself program in case you’d like to manhandle some warm nori sheets and tasty fillings like spicy akami or blue crab mixed with yuzu kewpie. Pay close attention to what they say they’re giving you because there’s a non-zero chance you’ll accidentally get the wrong roll.

Seats at the temaki bar are walk-in-only, helping the place feel like a neighborhood spot, but at the other end of the spectrum, there’s also a $95 nigiri omakase dinner (reservations strongly recommended) in the quiet back room. And for the busy West Loop professional, there’s a speedy (usually 45 minutes or less) $48 lunchtime option. No matter what you opt for, the fish is generally fine, if overwhelmed by all the “extras.” But the overall experience is good enough to appeal to the guy inevitably sitting next to you who exclaims, “That piece of fatty tuna was insane, bro!”

Food Rundown

photo credit: Brad Danner

Temaki

The flavor combinations of these two-bite hand rolls are interesting in theory, but everything kind of tastes the same and has the same texture. The extras—like gochujang, kewpie mayo, or sesame—do more to cover up than enhance the seafood.

photo credit: Veda Kilaru

Small Plates

There are a few snacks on the menu, like edamame tossed in a spicy garlic sauce or a rich, heavy-on-the-sesame-oil tuna tartare topped with a soy-cured quail egg. Get one of these, or the surprisingly delicate ninniku crudo to share.

photo credit: Veda Kilaru

Lunch Omakase

Each beautifully sliced piece is small and simply dressed with a touch of wasabi and a brush of soy. Some courses—like uni, chutoro, and kani temaki—are winners. But some of the other fish is borderline flavorless, and it can be hard to discern what you’re eating (especially when coupled with bland rice that’s occasionally a bit hard).