COLUMN | Milkweed + Honey: Fall is full in the vegetable patch

On a bright day like the one on which I’m writing and likely the one on which you’re reading, it can be difficult to imagine November freezes or January grayness.

These bright days, though, are the right time to plant vegetables for autumn and winter. Like the squirrels viciously ripping up my cucumbers to bury walnuts (that will sprout into little monsters I will fight for years to come), we must bury treasures for the cold months now.

My motivation to keep up the summer garden starts to wane around mid-August. The tomato plants sprawl, huge and unwieldy. I’m spending long, steamy hours preserving fresh harvests. The stink bugs and mosquitoes proliferate. Many flowers begin to fade and fall. I’ve been tending some of these dang vegetables since February, and the end isn’t quite in sight yet.

Planting fall crops boosts my enjoyment in the garden. The anticipation of future rewards balances out the tedium of current work. It’s like a shot of spring inoculating me to the sweaty reality of high summer.

If you’re also weary of zucchini on your counter and sunscreen in your eyes, consider grabbing some fall seeds to remind you there’s still joy to come in the world. Meditate on the cozy possibility of eating a cheesy potato soup with warm bread on a chilly day, wrapped in your grandma’s quilt. Do not think about the darkness at 4 o’clock. Do not acknowledge it is an election year. Do not dread the stress of holiday shopping. Just think of soup.

PRIMETIME

Many plants work for autumn harvest, but others can stay in the ground throughout the cold season. You want frost-tender crops to mature before the first hard frost (unless you use something like frost blankets to extend the season). Hardier crops like garlic or broccoli can grow slowly throughout the cooler months for harvest later in winter or next spring.

Make sure your planting site gets enough light throughout the year. My main kitchen garden receives a lot of sun in the summer but is mainly shaded by my neighbor’s trees on the south side in the winter. I have made the mistake of seeding something under the beating sun in July only for it to flounder in deep shade a few months later.

Remember to rotate crops when space allows. For example, plant winter lettuce or brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, kale, rutabaga) where you had your spring/summer legumes (peas, green beans). This helps prevent disease and increase soil fertility.

Here are a few of the best edibles to plant in late July to August and September for fall and winter:

Beets — This colorful, frost-hardy root vegetable can be planted from July to early October in western Oregon and Washington. Early varieties will be ready for fall munching (‘Early Wonder Tall Top’ takes just 45 days to maturity). Winter-thriving varieties include ‘Azuma’ (80+ days) and ‘Lutz Green Leaf’ (65 days). Do you hate how the red juice stains everything? Try white ‘Avalanche’ or golden ‘Touchstone Gold.’

Kohlrabi — This vegetable is one of the many cultivars of Brassica oleracea, but it is less widespread than others, such as cauliflower. It can be used in soup, curry, or salad, as you would broccoli. By planting it now, it should be mature enough to withstand frost, while the cooler weather will improve the flavor. Harvesting while on the smaller side ensures the best flavor, too. ‘Delicacy,’ which comes in white and purple variations, withstands winter weather well. Plant other brassicas like arugula, cabbage, kale, and mustard greens.

Shallots — The mellower, sometimes sweeter cousin to onions, shallots can be planted by bulb in September or so for late winter or spring harvest. Each bulb will grow a cluster of new bulbs, similar to garlic. You’ll know they’re ready to harvest when the green tops have browned and fallen over. Like other alliums, they must be cured in a dry spot before storing. ‘Tis the season for other alliums, too: scallion starts can go in the ground throughout August, while onion and garlic sets are best planted in September or even October.

Spinach — Don’t make Popeye side-eye you — make sure to include spinach in your winter garden. This leafy favorite can be seeded through September. Fast-growing varieties are better for for late summer and early fall planting. Try ‘Baker,’ ‘Olympia,’ and ‘St. Helens.’ ‘Red Kitten’ can be on your plate after just a month. Joining beets and spinach in the Goosefoot family, Swiss chard is also ready to plant now.

LATE-ISH ENTRIES

If you’re willing to push your luck just a bit or you’ve finally had space open in your garden, you can still try planting some of these winter favorites despite it being technically past their ideal planting time.

Carrots — Often, these are best planted around early July, but you still could try a short-season variety. Consider Nantes carrots — stubbier, rounder varieties that originated in France and grow well in heavy soils. ‘Napoli’ can be ready in just 55 days, while ‘Speedo’ takes 65 and ‘Starica’ and ‘Bolero’ take around 70.

Fennel — Another crop best sown in July, bulb fennel differs from herb fennel, which is grown for its tall, feathery foliage. Bulb fennel is a shorter, cool-weather crop with a crisp anise taste. Keep it well-irrigated, and you’ll have a less common vegetable to add to your salads or soups in 80 days.

Rutabagas — If you get these in the ground the final week of July, you have a chance. Their relatively long growing season (90-120 days) means you can’t dawdle if you want them to be close to maturity when winter rolls in; plus, dry weather when growing promotes better flavor than heavy rain. Varieties that can have slightly shorter growing seasons are Major Dunne (80 days) and Marian (85-95 days). I love them for their sweeter, fuller flavor than turnips, but if you are too late for the game, consider doing turnips this year instead.