Material World: Alternative Leathers Hit Auto, Furniture Markets

Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering news from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.

Spinnova, Ecco Commit to Scaling Joint Venture, Respin

MycoWorks

Biotechnology company MycoWorks announced that Sollei, Cadillac’s latest concept car, is the first automobile to incorporate a mycelium biobased material developed in collaboration with General Motors . MycoWorks’ Fine Mycelium material was used in the charging mats on the console and the door map pockets, unveiled at the Cadillac House at Vanderbilt in Warren, Michigan .

“MycoWorks is grateful to be working with General Motors on co-developing a pioneering new category of mycelium materials with Fine Mycelium,” Matthew Scullin , MycoWorks’ CEO, said. “MycoWorks’ collaboration with Cadillac and General Motors is the first in the automotive industry, demonstrating the enormous potential of Fine Mycelium in sustainable mobility and what it means for the future of clean, responsible automotive design .”

In late 2022, GM Ventures—the automotive manufacturing firm’s investment arm—strategically invested an undisclosed amount into the alternative leather company to co-develop the California company’s patented Fine Mycelium material for automotive interior use. This mycelium technology cultivates the root structure of mushrooms in a controlled environment, growing it to spec and “harnessing” that natural growth to create Reishi . For Cadillac, Reishi comes in an iridescent finish and a soft hue color palette.

“Sollei concept reimagines the discovery of travel, innovative use of materials, optimistic celestial-inspired design,” said Erin Crossley, design director for Cadillac. “Sollei concept cultivates the vision for limitless expression and artful integration between travel and leisure.”

Balena

Materials science company Balena has launched two new materials under its award-winning range of advanced biopolymer materials, BioCir.

The first is BioCirX, a high-impact rigid injection molding material derived from 100 percent biobased and biodegradable natural polymers sourced from polyhydroxyalkanoates ( PHAs ) through bacterial fermentation . The Yeezy collaborator said it’s compatible with conventional injection molding machines and designed to replace petrochemicals such as PP and ABS—both forms of plastic —in durable consumer goods like eyewear and accessories.

Balena conducted feasibility tests utilizing BioCirX with Portugal-based manufacturer Sepol. These tests are focused on reducing the seatbelt’s environmental footprint by replacing petrochemical-based materials with a compostable alternative.

Moving into the apparel sector, the footwear-centric firm partnered with modular 3D fashion designer Brigitte Kock of Variable Seams on a co-created collection of flexible, ready-to-wear 3D-printed garments made with Balena’s compostable FlexTex3D technology, underpinned by its BioCirFlex3D solution.

This solution—a biobased, compostable and recyclable thermoplastic —enables the 3D printing of fabrics and garments that are flexible, durable and still wearable. Intended to replace plastics like polyester and nylon, FlexTex3D ensures the same functional properties as these fossil-fuel fibers while “empowering” brands to decarbonize their supply chains and minimize environmental impact with a fully circular end-of-life solution.

Last month, the collection won the Red Dot Design Award for Design Concept, a recognized and international “seal of approval” for excellence in design innovation .

“The Red Dot Award for Design Concept acknowledges our BioCir FlexTex3D and its design excellence, marking a significant breakthrough in sustainable fashion,” said David Roubach , Balena’s founder and CEO. “Its remarkable flexibility, durability and wearability showcases our dedication to merging innovation with functionality, ushering in a new era of environmentally circular solutions in the fashion realm.”

The Costs, Challenges and Cooperation Behind Commercializing Material Innovations

Balena said it’s ready to scale BioCir FlexTex3D to meet the global market’s “ growing demand ” for 3D-printed wearables , focusing on expanding production capacity, forming strategic partnerships and exploring applications outside of fashion. The material is “widely compatible” and quickly processed using filaments or pellets on direct drive 3D printers .

“I vividly recall learning about the Red Dot Award during the early stages of my design career. Its reputation for honoring innovative concepts and pushing the boundaries of creativity left an indelible mark on me,” said Yael Vantu, Balena’s CPO. “Winning this prestigious award now is not only a professional milestone but also a deeply personal validation of our team’s dedication and vision for a fully circular future in fashion. Working alongside Brigitte on the project was a pleasure; she’s a force to be reckoned with.”

Von Holzhausen

Von Holzhausen ’s Banbū is now available on the emblematic Eames Lounge Chair and Ottoman by Herman Miller —marking the first time in 68 years that the midcentury modern furniture designer has offered a plant-based upholstery option.

“ Charles and Ray Eames pioneered the use of molded plywood in furniture, one of the central material innovations of their time. Today, Herman Miller is among the first furniture brands to offer a plant-based leather alternative—made almost entirely from bamboo,” said Noah Schwarz, vice president of product design for Herman Miller. “The two materials come together in the latest offering of the iconic Eames Lounge Chair and Ottoman, upholding the aesthetic and quality standards that have defined the chair for nearly 70 years.”

The California material innovation company leverages bamboo’s rapid growth and non-destructive harvesting process for its next-gen alternative leather material, which is 83 percent plant-based, 100 percent composed of bamboo fiber content with a 72 percent plant-based topcoat. Backed by climate science, Banbū offers an estimated five times carbon emission savings compared to traditional cow leather. It also biodegrades in less than 250 days in a landfill—a “stark contrast” to plastic, “ vegan leather ” alternatives as well as tanned and polyurethane-coated leather that take centuries to decompose .

While von Holzhausen has worked with the automotive industry in the past, including the Volkswagen Group and Tesla , the furniture sector’s adaption of Banbū validates the notion that plant-based leather has legs.

“We’re proud to help pave the way for the most iconic companies courageous enough to expand their heritage products and luxury design capabilities in a sustainable way,” said Vicki von Holzhausen , founder and CEO of the eponymous brand. “Banbū represents a leap forward for the furniture industry , offering conscious design without compromise. With its plant-based origins, durability and biodegradability , Banbū is a true game-changer.”

World Emblem

Emblem and patch manufacturer World Emblem unveiled Flexbroidery, a new product that provides a more cost-effective and sustainable solution than traditional direct embroidery .

Flexbroidery patches can add intricate detail and raised texture to colors that can be applied in-house with low-melt heat seals. The patented product was designed to streamline production, reduce expenses and give customers the ability to “stock and hold” their products, the Levi’s partner said.

“Thanks to its convenient heat pressing application method, Flexbroidery opens up a new realm of possibilities for achieving an embroidered appearance without threads, hoops or machinery,” said Randy Carr, president and CEO of World Emblem. “From corporate branding to personal projects, Flexbroidery patches are built to last, making them an ideal choice for uniforms, accessories and apparel.”

Material World: Forward-Thinking Textiles Shine at Milano Unica