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    Olympic surfer details 'crazy' near-death experience after almost drowning battling huge waves

    By Oli Gamp & John O'sullivan,

    7 hours ago
    https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=4WpNCr_0uhnjoxY00

    Australian surf hero Jack Robinson has revealed his brush with death during the Olympic Games, where he battled through to the quarter-finals despite the dangerous waves at French Polynesia. The 26-year-old pro surfer made headlines by knocking out world No. 1 John Florence in Tahiti, which is currently the venue for the surfing competitions of this year's Paris Olympics.

    A looming storm whipped up massive swells, leading to the postponement of the women's round three heat on Tuesday over safety worries. Robinson described his terrifying experience with several wipe-outs that called for a jet-ski rescue.

    "I got dragged over the bottom and almost had a two-wave hold under," he recounted. "I didn't get much air. There wasn't much time. I got reminded of so many guys who have had so many bad wipe-outs here.

    "I have had some pretty bad (wipe-outs) but in a contest it's different. You have way more adrenaline and there is way more on the line," reports the Mirror US .

    Scoring 13.94 against Florence's 9.07, Robinson advanced but was keen to share his relief at coming out of his previous heat unscathed, underscoring the ocean's dangers and comparing a wave's impact to an avalanche.

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    "Every other sport is in a court or a stadium," he observed. "We are in an ocean. It is the biggest, most powerful source of life we have on this planet.

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    "'The waves are so powerful. It doesn't relate to any other sport. Maybe an avalanche coming down on your head on a mountain. Maybe it's similar to that. It's so dangerous and so crazy."

    Robinson is set to go up against fellow Aussie Ethan Ewing in the next round, following Ewing's victory over Connor O'Leary in another intense match. "I had some wipeouts but stoked it paid off," confessed Ewing.

    "I have so much water in my head right now. It feels good to be back on the land now."

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