Blancpain Just Dropped Two Solid-Gold Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Divers

Hot on the heels of releasing full ceramic versions of the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune and Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback, Blancpain is giving both models the full gold treatment. The red gold case and bracelet, along with gold dial markings and Ceragold hour markers on the bezel go a long way to cross the ever-blurring line between dive watches and dress watches—this erasure first stared in 1969 with the solid gold Rolex 1680 Submariner .

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The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was one of two dive watches to go to market in 1953 at the Baselworld trade fair (Rolex would officially release the Submariner in 1954). By 1956, when recreational diving started to emerge as a hobby, Blancpain followed up with the Bathyscaphe, a daily-use version of the pro dive watch with a smaller diameter but similarly impressive water resistance.

The Quantième Complet Phases de Lune is already notable for its curious combination of complications, including a moon phase and complete calendar. These are not functions normally associated with a dive watch. Adding a red gold case and bracelet place it firmly in the category of dress watch–or as one of those impressive complications reserved for high-end attire, like any other watch priced over $50,000. The Chronograph version feels a bit sportier, with its subdials and date window at 4:30, but the gold hands and markers elevate the look. Ultimately, these watches are about getting more variety into an iconic model, not unlike the concept of Blancpain teaming up with Swatch for the Five Oceans models.

Dressy as these two gold models are, it must be noted that they retain the hallmarks of the true sports watch: Massive syringe-style hands and markers liberally coated with Super-LumiNova ensure legibility. Water resistance of 300 meters makes them entirely dive-worthy (which is especially impressive given the unthreaded actuators on the chronograph). And the unidirectional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert does its job as it would on any dive watch. The gradient blue dial is also a sporty touch.

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Unlike most tool watches, however, the movements are elite. The Quantième Complet Phases de Lune is powered by the automatic 6654.P4, with two mainspring barrels for a 72-hour power reserve, and the silicon balance spring reduces the effects of magnetism. The Chronograph Flyback contains a high-frequency caliber, the F385, beating at 36,000 vph, with a 50-hour power reserve.

But the big news here is, of course, the gold build. At 43 mm wide x 13.40 mm thick, the watch is big, and in gold, noticeably heavy, especially on the nicely sculpted bracelet. Making that bracelet involves a series of demanding assembly and finishing processes, with links joined together by means of transverse cam-actuated pins that give the links a unique flexibility that fits incredibly well on the wrist. Based on a patented system, the screws are placed on the back of the links to preserve the smooth look and feel of the bracelet edges. The satin-brushed finish is applied by hand. These models also available on either NATO ($32,000) or sail canvas strap ($33,800). In gold with gold bracelet, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune and Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback are both priced at $55,300.

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