As biggest-ever railway Wetherspoons opens at London Waterloo – is station catering fit for purpose?

Long before the glass doors opened, a queue had formed outside a new catering concession at London Waterloo: not another Upper Crust or Burger King, but the biggest J D Wetherspoon at a railway station.

Mick Allen from Dartford was among the “Wetherspoon tickers” eagerly waiting to visit the latest addition to the pub chain’s hundreds of outlets. This group of (mainly male) enthusiasts travel the length and breadth of Britain in a bid to visit every “Spoons”.

“I’m on 708,” he says. “I’ve got 96 more to go, including this one.”

Burger King does not generate such enthusiasm for completism. Unlike the fast-food chain, every J D Wetherspoon is different – reflecting at least something of local history.

The Lion & The Unicorn is not exactly a heritage location; it occupies part of the Eurostar terminal abandoned when cross-Channel trains moved across town to St Pancras. The name derives from a long-demolished pavilion at the South Bank Exhibition for the 1951 Festival of Britain.

Some of the 580 seats in the pub carry the embossed names of the worthies involved in planning the festival, which was intended to lift the nation’s spirits from post-war austerity. Whether customers will appreciate the mid-century vibe, complete with giant black-and-white prints of the festival site, is another matter.

“We try to get into as many transport hubs as we can,” says Barry Brewster, the appropriately named regional manager for J D Wetherspoon. He looks after the chain’s properties at rail stations and airports.

“We’re in quite a few already across London, but this is by far and away the biggest project we’ve done in the last several years.”

A pub in a railway station or an airport is inevitably different from one on a high street: far fewer regulars, far more transient customers and time pressure more intense than the usual call for last orders.

But goodness, catering for people on the move is profitable. The market leader is Select Service Providers (SSP). It was born in 1966 as British Rail Catering and is now a global enterprise worth £1.36bn.

The Office of Rail and Road (ORR) investigated the station catering market this summer and believes up to half of all passenger spending at stations goes to SSP.

To the surprise of no one who has ever bought a coffee and a sandwich, the ORR report found: “The average price premium is in the region of 10 per cent.” This, though, is still less than at airports and motorway service stations.

Based on The Independent ’s initial research at London Waterloo, J D Wetherspoon could provide something of an antidote.

The entry-level pint at The Lion & The Unicorn is Greene King IPA at £3.29 – about half the price at the gigantic Brewdog pub just 50 metres away. A full English breakfast – consumed with gusto by the first wave of customers on opening day – is just £6.71.

A degree in maths is not required to calculate that someone keen to start the day with a pint, egg, bacon, beans and toast can procure the popular morning meal package for a tenner.

In the unlikely event that such a feast does not appeal, customers can drink unlimited tea and coffee for £1.56. You don’t get that at Pret a Manger up on the main concourse.

Waterloo station’s lower-level development, known as The Sidings, has not been a roaring success – partly because it is blocked from the South Bank by the vast and largely derelict eyesore known as Elizabeth House. Window seats were not in demand on the opening morning of The Lion & The Unicorn.

In time, the hideous 1960s office block is due to be demolished, opening up eyelines to the London Eye and Big Ben and creating a more pleasing locale. Nando’s is opening next door, which should increase footfall. In addition, the new pub is very close to the “graffiti tunnel”: Leake Street, the most exciting art space in London, which entices an increasing numbr of tourists.

For now, Barry Brewster is seeking to drum up business from anywhere. He booked a Bavarian oompah band to welcome morning commuters (warning: the entry-level lager is not a tasty German brew, but flavour-free Bud Light at £3.49).

One possible issue: a few parts of the planet may not be fully aware of the ’Spoons ethos.

“Some people will only be here once in a lifetime,” says the Wetherspoon executive. “There were some Canadians in this morning, some Australians. They’re just coming to the UK for once in a lifetime. And we’re just here to try and provide an enjoyable experience – and hopefully a memorable experience.”

Passengers at one of the UK’s three busiest stations, meanwhile, have a fresh budget option. In station catering, as well as transport more widely, competition works for the traveller.

With wider choice and lower prices, Waterloo could become a “destistation”, which people visit because of the range of good-value places to eat, drink and shop.

Mick Allen from Dartford is simply happy to have chalked up another J D Wetherspoon hostelry. “I just like pubs,” he says.

Waterloo ’Spoons: A toast to the new Lion’s den – podcast