Are Protective Styles Actually Protective?

In an effort to protect their natural hair from damaging heat and manipulation , many Black women opt for protective styles. From braided looks and weaves, these styles keep the hair safe, tucked away and easily styled. From box braids to cornrows, it’s a staple in Black culture and a must for natural hair queens.

However, with more complicated styles, like boho braids and faux locs coming into popularity, many have asked one question. Are protective styles actually protective?

How Do Protective Styles Help?

Braided styles and weaves keep the hair tucked away and minimize the possibility of breakage and damage. These styles limit manipulation and exposure to heat. They’ve been coined “protective styles” by the natural hair community, as these styles play a vital role in retaining length and nurturing the health of your curls.

From Bantu knots to twists, these styles have not only become a part of how Black women identify and express themselves. They’ve also are a bridge of connection to ancestors, who braided their crowns as extensions of art and religion. From colors to different styles, Black women have only added more creativity with these protective styles. There’s certainly a distinction between “protective styles” and “low manipulation.”

How Do Protective Styles Hurt

Traction alopecia is a balding that results from continuous pulling force on the hair roots. It affects a third of Black women, as more women are experiencing hair loss after having their hair gripped too tight. In an effort to keep a style looking clean and lasting the test of time, your hair stylist may grip your hair with too much force. It can cause pain and pulling. Severe tension with heavy braids also can cause harmful weighing on the scalp, leading to breakage and discomfort. Protective styles can quickly become disastrous if not tended to properly or executed with care.

Everything good should be in moderation, and back-to-back braided styles can ultimately defeat the purpose of a protective style. Braids are heavier in weight than natural hair because of the added hair. The weight-gravity relation, manipulation, tightness, parting and products can all lead to breakage, scalp irritation, hair loss and traction alopecia. The smaller the braids, the higher the risk. Adding synthetic hair into braids can cause friction and split ends over time.

In addition, raw oils and butters can build up and prevent the proper moisture from water and conditioner from reaching the follicles, which are a must for healthy hair.

The Bottom Line

A good rule of thumb is that constant tension on the scalp is never a good thing. The most important thing to remember is that you’ll get out of your hair what you put into it.

A protective style doesn’t mean a low-maintenance style. If you neglect your hair while it’s in braids, you may very well experience damage. Make sure these styles are installed gently by a professional and that you speak up if there’s too much tension. Pain isn’t normal and if you notice your edges are gone and your head is hurting after installation, it could be time to get a new stylist. Try to space out the time between protective styles and get thoroughly informed on proper care and maintenance.

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