Chile’s Only Cat Skiing Is an Improbable Dream of Pure Skiing

“Anton probably wouldn’t call it cowboy, but it’s pretty cowboy,” said Alex Taran , one of the guides at Ski Arpa, Chile’s only snowcat operation, located in a remote, west-facing Andean valley a couple of hours north of Santiago.

The Anton who might not call his Ski Arpa “cowboy” is Aspen-based Anton Sponar, son of Anton “Toni” Sponar , an Austrian-American ski legend who purchased the terrain serviced by Ski Arpa about 20 years ago after discovering the two valleys while ski guiding in the area.

After briefly considering building a more traditional ski resort, the elder Sponar settled on the lower startup cost option of establishing Chile’s only snowcat skiing operation—a distinction it still holds. Since then, Ski Arpa has been mostly continuously operational during North American summers, serving a mix of Chileans and North Americans looking for a pure, barebones backcountry ski experience in the Andes.

You can call it “cowboy,” “rustic,” “pure,” “minimalist,” or a number of other adjectives that speak to Arpa’s simplicity and the conspicuous absence of plush lodges and other luxuries usually associated with private cat skiing, though there is a bathroom. The younger Sponar, who now runs Arpa from afar, didn’t call it any of those words above, but he did tell me, “It’s a unique experience you’re not going to get skiing anywhere else in the world. It really is all about the skiing. There’s not much else there.”

Taran and the other seasonal guides live off-grid at Ski Arpa in a converted snowcat shed and are not only guides but sometimes mechanics, concierges, and grillmasters. They are the only real full-time employees of Ski Arpa during the season. “It’s not pretty--it’s not a luxury lodge in British Columbia, but it’s this dream of skiing in this special place made possible by a handful of people, passion, and a variety of petroleum products,” said Taran, sitting at the Rancho Avalancha refuge after our day of skiing. “It's a completely improbable operation.”

What the Ski Arpa experience is at its core is affordable, guided cat skiing in an undeveloped section of the Andes where you’ll be led through a day of leg-burning long descents across more than 4,000 acres of backcountry ski terrain with a handful of other skiers at most.

Ski Arpa’s Terrain

As the crow flies, Ski Arpa’s rustic base area is 50 miles north of Santiago, 25 miles west of the Western Hemisphere’s highest peak, Aconcagua (22,837 feet), and 25 miles northwest of popular Chilean ski resort Portillo . As the SUV drives, however, it’s perched at the top of a series of switchbacks Chileans call “caracoles” (roughly “snail trails”) after progressing from paved to dirt to 4x4 winding roads leading north from the mountain gateway town of Los Andes.

The slopes generally face South, the Southern Hemisphere’s preferred orientation for soft snow. The primary valley descends west towards the Pacific Ocean and delivers epic sunsets at the end of the ski day.

The base area sits just below 9,000 feet, and the dual valleys' ridgetops top out around 12,500 feet. While you won’t ski all the way back to the base until the end of the day, expect 2,000 to 3,000-foot descents and four to six laps, depending on your group size, skill level, and other factors.

Because the treeline in Chile is much lower than in North America, all the terrain at Ski Arpa is wide open, save for rock formations and ridges that jut out from the snowpack. This means low-light and stormy days present challenging visibility for detecting variations in the snow surface and demands fluency in skiing by Braille.

The runs range from intermediate bowls to double-black couloirs, and Arpa’s guides tailor the experience to the group. Remember that, as with any mixed-group cat skiing, and you’ll be limited in where you ski by the least capable skier in your cat. The only way for hard-chargers to ensure a fast pace and extreme terrain is to book a private cat and hope conditions support your group’s daily goals.

Intermediates shouldn’t shy away from booking, as there are plenty of options for them in the 4000+ acres of terrain, but expert skiers comfortable with backcountry and off-piste skiing will get the most out of the experience.

Ski Arpa Conditions

If you’re used to cat skiing in the Western US and Canada, where cold powder falls in heavy supply, you’ll need to adjust your expectations for Chile. Despite the high elevation, intense sun and wind combined with unpredictable snowfall patterns mean you can encounter variable conditions, and blower pow isn’t guaranteed.

Ski Arpa claims five to 10 feet of snow in a season that is shorter than the North American winter, so deep days are definitely possible. My visit in August followed a small dry period after an epic early start to the season. While we skied a mix of shallow pow, chalk, and some breakable crust, the guides quickly zeroed in on the best aspects, and we ended up skiing more soft snow than not.

Even when conditions in the region aren’t favorable, Ski Arpa is likely to have some of the best snow around due to the large area of skiable terrain, the limited number of skiers each day, and guides who live at the base and are keyed into the best aspects.

Ski Arpa Ski Season and Dates

Ski Arpa’s dates of operation are usually the beginning of July to the beginning of September, but those can shift wildly depending on the weather. For example, in 2023, the snow came very late in the season, and by the time Arpa had enough snow to build their cat roads and operate normally, they had decided to cancel for the year entirely. Your best bet is to contact Ski Arpa directly via the website form to determine expected operating dates when planning your trip. Sponar told me that, as for most Santiago-area skiing, August is the safest bet for North Americans trying to book a trip well in advance. Even in robust snow years like 2024, Ski Arpa isn’t likely to extend their season much because guides have other commitments, and Chileans start moving on to summer activities.

Getting There

You’ll fly into Santiago and might benefit from a few days getting your ski legs back at one of the Santiago-area resorts, such as Valle Nevado or Portillo, before heading up for the long runs at Arpa. Regardless of where you are, Glove Travel can provide a private shuttle both ways.

My shuttle driver for a day of skiing at Arpa wasn’t intimidated by the familiar 4x4 route, but the Canadian couple that shared our cat showed up late and was slightly rattled by the rocky drive made in their rental SUV.

The private shuttle can double the cost of your ski day, but if you don’t need a car for any other parts of your trip, it might be worth it to avoid the stress of getting a capable rental car, making the unfamiliar drive, and potentially arriving late and missing your cat reservation. The shuttle cost varies depending on your location and number of people, but Glove Travel can provide more accurate quotes based on your itinerary.

Lodging

Santiago offers a range of hotels, from recognizable global chains such as Hilton, Best Western, and Holiday Inn to boutique options and hostels. I stayed at The Singular Santiago in Santiago’s bustling Lastarria neighborhood, which boasts plenty of restaurants and bars open late, a wealth of nearby parks and attractions, and a central location.

If you want to minimize shuttle costs, the closest option is to stay in the small town of Los Andes, and Glove Travel recommends Hotel Inca . Staying in Los Andes also cuts your drive time by about an hour.

Pricing and How to Book

A ski day at Arpa is much cheaper than most North American cat skiing operations and significantly more affordable than the various heliski options in Chile, thanks to their simple operation and low overhead. A place on a cat for a day of skiing costs $325, no matter the dates. You can also book out an entire cat for a day of private skiing.

Bookings are managed by Glove Travel , so you can contact Glove directly or fill out the booking inquiries form on the Ski Arpa website, which emails Glove directly ( ski@glovetravel.com ). You can also use WhatsApp to call or text +54 9 2944 120018.

Suppose you’re interested in a packaged Chilean ski experience to dodge the hassles of planning an international vacation. In that case, Casa Tours offers several Chilean ski vacation packages , including a day at Ski Arpa.

Ski Arpa also has a rental ski fleet from Salomon if your ski luggage gets lost by the airline or you prefer not to travel with skis.

Related: Experts Only: Building a Steep and Deep Silverton Ski Trip